Work trailer guys

Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment and Supplies' started by Majwoody, Feb 23, 2017.

  1. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    I just made the switch back to a truck and trailer from cargo van. I was planning to bolt the 6 by 2 by 6.5 Costco shelves I have but I don't like how much room they take up. I have a 7x14 trailer with barn doors and a 4' side door. I plan to load 1 pallet through the side door and up to 2 pallets through the rear. I also want to keep a path over 4' down the middle for broadloom or stretch jobs.

    I have looked online for inspiration but everything I have found is from carpenters and they put way more skill and money into their rigs, not to mention they don't have to haul materials like we do. I would like to see how some of you have set up your trailers to accommodate the needs of this trade. Thank you.
     
  2. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I'm into this thread 100%. I have a 7x14, no V, barn,32" side. I want to have a custom 7x14 built, Been mulling over ideas for years, there's some manufacturers who can oblige with all their options.

    I bought my trailer from a friends brother who was a carpenter, so he put some wood shelves up, when I bought my cargo van New I got free cabinets, took them out when motor was going, sold it for 750$ and put the steel shelves in trailer, they hold most of the small stuff, the wood holds most of the larger bulky stuff. I would consider adding a layer of plywood to strengthen the deck for pallet jacks. I had a 5/16" 4x10 steel plate down, but recently removed it, with the ramp I think it was 600 lbs. so plywood will be taking its place and an occasional 125lb aluminum ramp that locks into the trailer to prevent slipping.

    Here's my trailer as it sits today in work mode.
     

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  3. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    I don't think you going to want to load 3 heavy pallets in a 7' x 14' trailer?
    Is it a single axel?
    Is it 3500,5000, or 6000 lb axel(s)
    With a trailer you should center most of the weight over the axels.
    Too much front weight or rear weight will cause a death wobble on your pick up ,
    epically if it is a 1/2 ton pick up.

    I love my truck and trailer. I've had one since 1997.
    I have a 8'6"x 20' dual 5000 lb axels with a 4' side door and rear barn doors.
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  4. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Nice set up, Don. I had a similar set up in my box van for metals storage. I put some 12' PVC pipes with a cap on the back side along the side of the box and built a platform over it. Best thing I did in that regard. Kept my metals from getting trashed. Especially my cap and cove metals. Just look at those flimsy things wrong and they instantly turn to scrap metal.
     
  5. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    Not worried about the truck :cool:
     

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  6. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    Almost there. Just gotta figure out how I want to store my longer tools. Then the task of loading it. I'm hoping to fit my wet saw also but that might be asking too much. Shelves are 3/4" and floor has a second layer of 5/8". Hoping to use a pallet jack. Toying with ideas for a ramp and rollers.
     

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  7. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    Also kicking around overhead storage for metals. My cousin does electrical and said wiring it with an rv converter and battery is easy. Want to plug in at home and on site but have battery for lights. The new Ford has no constant hot power. I can only use lights with truck running. I do have auxiliary switches in the cab but am reluctant to play with the electrical on this truck.
     
  8. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    I would guess your truck has a constant hot wire.
    On my last 4 GM trucks I had to get a $5 / 40 amp
    fuse , it was labeled either stud 1 or stud 2.
    They don't come with the truck for some reason.
    It is a larger green square fuse on the GM
     

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  9. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    I've heard of guys installing a jumper wire in the fuse box. Just have to look into it more. No constant in the cab either. I do have 110 though. It's kinda nice buy I used to charge my Bluetooth stuff over night in the old rigs.
     
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  10. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I'd like to say I hate almost everything about my trailer, but it gets the job done.
    Here's my gripes
    The shell is flimsy
    The hinges are weak and not very secure
    The spacing of the framing is 2 ft on center
    The beams are s shape instead of box
    The braking electric is just not precise enough
    The roofing is flimsy
    Framing to screw into is weak
    Tires are only Chinese made
    Would like 8 lug(Chevy)to only have truck spare tire
    Battery brake is dysfunctional
    Would like roll up door, front V nose ramp
    Replaced old lights with led, less amps, haven't put LED in interior.
    Torsion wheels come off ground in uneven surface

    That might be it, maybe some straggle complaints.

    Here's couple of my ramps, 6 ft length seems the best, sometimes it's too wide attached on driveways but the angle is easily walked. The coarse screw thread replaced the smooth pins which can pop out of the drilled trailer pin holes.

    Here's a link, I don't like/trust the ones that fold half way up.

    Titan 6' Briefcase Fold Utility Loading Ramp on ebay
     

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  11. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I got tired of my spare tire inside taking up space, so bought a trailer foot stand, drilled a hole 2" and secured the tire with pin. No boot on outside to prevent water intrusion though.

    Also there are many brackets sold at Home Depot and Lowes, just depends on what you're lugging around. The staple items end up getting their own spot.
     

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  12. Majwoody

    Majwoody Pro Member

    I like those ramps! Right now I am having an OCD attack due to the fact that I want the weight of all my tools to be even between the left and right side of the trailer.
    I have read that the newer GM trucks are similar in that they don't have constant hot from the factory but the fix is easier. I am reluctant to start playing with the electrical in my new truck as the consequences are greater than with my 05 duramax.
     
  13. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I use to be concerned about the distribution of weight with tools, they are all in left side but then other tools make up for it on the deck and cargo/materials. I have some broken brackets (Simpson ties)from fatigue for the shelving needing replacement.

    The electrical I can't blame you, I had a D.C. To AC inverter system in my van that grounded out killing my alternator, smoke started to pour from the back. It could run drills etc. jump the battery from interior light left on which I later pulled the bulbs. I ended up pulling the entire system out. Stereo guy hooked up, had to bring to vehicle electrician needing larger marine 8D deep cell, isolator, larger cables. That was the end of all the aftermarket garbage I installed, though I would love onboard power again to run interior lights, security,gps tracking devices,video,(that will be soon) outlets.

    Just put down a layer of 4x8-3/4" marine grade plywood (65$ sheet) 4' of regular sheathing for the scraper, and have been removing any unnecessary things to reduce weight.
     

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  14. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor Senior Member

    You need more screws, Mike.
     
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  15. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Not sure how this layer is going to reduce "deflection" the wheels of ride on scraper would have crunched through original layer (3/4") when I got the trailer. The MG plywood was pretty solid, the Hardiboard screws with square head easily went down straight. The 3/4"sheathing 4' piece had hollows in it, and I ran out of H screws and went to star drive deck screws, they were wobbly at start, didn't feel they held as well as the other screws. I'm hoping the closeness of the screws holds the lower plywood enough to reduce deflection. The trailer has Z channel underneath every 24" on center instead of box beams. I wanted my fabricator to weld beams underneath, he suggested the plate steel, it was too much extra weight. I've located a good trailer manufacturer, and another that will custom manufacture to specs.

    So pallet jacks onboard will find the voids and crunch if they are there. Lowes has some signs on their plywood choices about what can be used where. This 1/4" says underlayment grade, but there are voids on bottom layer, unacceptable to me.
     

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  16. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    With torsion axles you can lift one wheel off ground by putting other wheel higher. I do this for greasing the bearings as a trailer supply company recommended to rotate tire when greasing. Also you can check the play in bearings by pushing/pulling vertically on tire to feel the play, this time it was 1/32" movement at tread end. Also if tire goes flat you can put something of height under one tire to lift and change flat without a jack. It will have a lot of weight on one axle, maybe a short 2x6 and 6" platform, I have some 1 foot 6x10 beams I cut and also use them for under the foot when disconnecting trailer.
     

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  17. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    I think you mean horizontally. Vertical is up and down, horizontal is lateral (left/right or forward/backward).
     
  18. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Wasn't sure how to term that Jim, maybe perpendicular to axle? I thought your reply was going to be about the safety of changing the tire( not sure if this practice is rogue)

    I see a lot of trailers going down the road of all types. One towing jet skis I stopped next to them and said their trailer wheel was wobbling(sorry to delay the fun!) many others with shredded tires on side of road. One reason I like dual axles one of mine I noticed was flat at jobsite, better than forcing to pull over immediately.
     
  19. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Turning with a dual axle trailer wears out tires, they're pushing sideways, that's why trailer tires are specific in their sidewall strength. I seem to favor certain backing procedures that wear the front of one side and the back of another. So either I rotate or put on another trailer the worn ones.

    I would have loved adjustable shelves but I bought my trailer from a trim carpenter. Had to cut shelves, reposition, reinforce. I needed more room in front to store equipment. There's an adjustable ratchet strap to help hold the shelf from falling over, some angle iron, some door hinges holding in place screwed through metal uprights. Wish the walls were more solid. I'll probably cut the width down as well in spots from 20" to 16" to allow for clearance of debris buckets. A used trailer allows you to do whatever you want to it, being creative and figuring out exactly what your needs are. I'd like a bigger trailer but parking is always an issue. I'll go a little higher on next trailer but stay at 7 wide. Thinking about painting it finally, removed decals looks tacky.

    Putting specific brackets for ez access, space saving, efficiency helps.
     

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    Last edited: May 24, 2017
  20. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Sun is beating down causing internal temp in the 120's the roof is galvanized metal in center so decided to put an elastomeric coating called Kool Seal. Should help a bit, should of did it when I had small bits of adhesives stored onboard.
     

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