Weight and Vinyl Plank Flooring

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by deb68, Sep 4, 2017.

  1. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Hello all.

    First, a bit of background.

    We are trying to make a decision on what to do with our flooring in our living/dining area.
    We currently have 12 year old carpet that we want gone due to quite frankly, dog odor, and yeah, cigarette odor from me. (thats a whole other conversation lol)

    The square footage is about 450. Our house was built in 1918 and we will be going over the
    original hardwood floors, which are in rough shape "looks" wise, but not structurally. Personally I think these floors could be refinished by the "next guy", my husband says they are too far gone, but whatever. Our property is a duplex, we own the whole house. Our dilemma is when we go to sell in 2 years, our retirement goal...we know that a Buyer for this house will be:
    1. An investor looking for a rental property in a nice neighborhood or
    2. Owner Occupant like we are, looking to have the rental cover most of the mortgage, like we had.

    I'm a real estate agent, so I know the comps in the neighborhood....I don't want to over improve our side of the house, because I know realistically, we will not get that money back. That is one reason I do not want to invest in restoring the hardwood floors. I have watched enough episodes of Rehab Addict to know that these floors could be restored LOL.

    Anyway...a major dilemma is we have a very large, heavy safe that sits in our dining area. We are not dining area people, so this room is open to the living area and is used for the safe, my large oak roll top desk where I work from home, and the dog kennel.
    There is no other option for the safe. It HAS to be up here as we cannot get it in the basement. It weighs 1400 lbs.

    We have been to flooring places, we have had guys come in and look and we are getting so much conflicting info, that I am tempted to just put carpet back down and be done with it. The contractor who has always done our flooring says he only glues down, which I understand is the preferred way for alot of contractors. He says with the safe especially it should be glued down.

    Then we go to other places and they say....no problem if you float it....won't be an issue.
    In my mind, I know that a lot of weight will be in this section of the room.

    I really could use some advise. The friend of ours who moved the safe (he moves safes for his retirement gig lol) into my kitchen temporarily mentioned building a platform for the safe, then we could float the floor around that leaving the expansion gaps around the platform....or glue down the floor.

    Will glue down ruin the original flooring underneath? I know we need 1/4 inch down over the floor to glue down to.

    How will vinyl hold up to the weight of the safe?

    And, this is a question for @Commercial Floor Rep....we are liking the Adura Max Vinyl Plank in Acacia Tigers Eye. What is your opinion on this flooring in this scenario?

    Think that is it for right now :)
  2. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    This is weird, Hey Deb from earlier posts, (candles,coffee) my wife's a realtor, not full time, just some time. Anyway, safes- it's all about material handling. I prefer to move them on new skat skates(Crain Dolly's) one safe the wheel covers peeled off of older set I have.

    Some guys here install flooring up to, then shift safe over and finish installation. Weight distribution is a concern, the safe if box shape without legs distributes the entire surface versus if it has legs.

    I had a very heavy safe that I've moved from restaurant to house to another house, it was over plywood with a pallet jack which rolled quite easily across much carpet, ramped down entry door up on ramp trailer like a roller coaster by myself.

    I'd suppose if it's in a corner and the plank were running the easy way to patch(add plank)when safe is removed then I'd consider going around.

    So gluedown plank, if the adhesive is thin, meaning it's in contact with slab and cannot be forced down due to thickness of adhesive, then it shouldn't show, but still I would use hardboard, something to ensure it doesn't indent.

    On hardwood I would use the Dolly's for appliances, as soon as I move it onto Finish floor I look under to see if it indents the hardwood, still in fresh adhesive prior to continuing on.
  3. Can you tell me what the dimensions are of the safe and whether it sits on feet or if it sits flat to the floor?
  4. deb68

    deb68 Member

    That is so funny Mike! I don't sell as much these days, but still do a few sales a year. I work in the office 4 days a week now doing processing of the paperwork, listings etc. My primary job is doing the HUD home store listings and the inspections of them. I like it better and get an actual paycheck for this job.

    We had the safe moved out of the area where the flooring will be put down. We just had popcorn removed from the entire main floor and wallpaper stripped, ceiling painted and walls painted. It was a big job which just wrapped up last Friday. If you look in the pic I attached, the safe will be going on the right side of that wall. It has been there since 2006 when we bought it. It is currently on the other side of that wall in my darn kitchen LOLOL. We want the planks to run lengthwise. The second pic is the rest of the area, mostly....and the total length is about 29 feet from front windows to kitchen archway.

    We do plan to order an extra box of material for repairs down the line.

    The safe is box shape without legs.

    Thanks for helping!

    Attached Files:

  5. deb68

    deb68 Member

    I sure can.

    41 inches wide
    26 1/2 inches deep
    60 inches height.

    Heavy....it's pushing 1400 lbs full....it's a fort knox if that helps any.

    Here is what my carpet looks like after moving this monster into my kitchen. It is a flat bottom, the front had a piece of wood to tilt the safe
    back a bit to avoid tipover when you open the heavy door. Something similiar will go under it once we move it back.

    We do intend to save carpet and put a piece, carpet side down, under the safe to protect the floor. We do not intend to be moving this safe again until we sell this place and move and then it's going right out the door lol.

  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I used blocks 4x8,2x4,then wood dowels (5)1/2" round to scooch in corner, some shotblast(round steel, like buckshot) that wasn't a good idea, I think they got pressed into the vct. I still have the safe actually but lately it's pretty empty.

    Wife was on the title side for many years, her friend that sold with her is now back to title, they know the ins and outs of the whole process and have good contacts. She brought over 4 title Ladys from other company to expand her bosses existing title. So in her off time(now) she watches Breaking Bad on Netflix.

    Brilliant removing popcorn! (Hope it wasn't asbestos) went to home about month ago, new homeowners, foreclosure actually, they removed popcorn, I told her that was smartest move, 1200$, maybe 2k ft and re textured(knock down)

    My buddy didn't when he had the chance, just strange decision making. He even painted his two showers(he does car restorations)
  7. In my opinion, I believe the Adura Max would be ok under the safe. You'd want to take the precautions of using Masonite or something similar to protect the floor while you're moving the safe into place. The upside down piece of carpet works well too but I'd use it over the Masonite just in case the safe tears through by accident. You've got a big enough base there and since it doesn't rest on feet the static load really isn't that bad.

    I sent a message into my friend who is a product engineer at Mannington just to confirm and I'll post back with his thoughts as well.

    Just an FYI, Mannington just came out with a commercial version of Adura Max called City Park that has a slightly denser core. Here's a link:

    City Park | Mannington LVT | Hard Surface | Mannington Commercial

    Thanks and let me know if I can help with any other questions.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Title people are amazing. They do so much. I have learned so much about foreclosures since doing the HUD homes. I had never sold a bank owned or HUD owned home until moving into the processing side, and now I know all the ins and outs. While dealing with the government contractor to get these homes to settlement can be a pain, it's not as difficult to me now that I know what to do.

    So the popcorn was put in this house in November of 1993. We found that date out after the wallpaper was stripped off the walls. The guy who did it wrote down the dates he did the ceiling popcorn (with sparkles even!) and the date he did the wallpaper and textured the remaining walls. I don't know what they were thinking other than going over plaster to hide imperfections....but the center wall going to the 2nd story, and my hallway are all done in a type of spray texture. The living dining area was a textured white wallpaper (non washable). The walls going down the basement steps has the same splatter texture as the upstairs center wall. The mixture of stuff in this house was really done, IMO, to hide the plaster. I LOL'd when I saw the autographs on the walls....honestly, not something I would be proud of....but back in the 90's this was the thing to do I guess (basically the cheap way to cover instead of replacing with drywall)

    This home was in the family we bought it from for generations and it was built in 1918...so we know the plaster is going to have alot of inperfections. But they could have just did that splatter texture instead of mixing in that wallpaper and if it was me, I would have done that splatter on the ceiling instead of the blasted nasty popcorn! LOL. I even have wallpaper in the kitchen and berber carpet in the kitchen!!! (That will be the next room to get done).
  9. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Thanks so much. When the guys came to move the safe they used large poly cutting board type things to slide the safe around the corner. I laughed because we have several of these in the basement for butchering deer. I am thinking we should do like you said, place the carpet side down and also put something like this masonite under as well.

    Safe guy also mentioned just putting the safe in place onto a platform made of 2x4's and then floating the floor around the base....that way we could leave an expansion gap and put quarter round on the base. We would then just keep extra planks for when we move to fill in that space.
    Not sure if that makes sense.

    My real estate main office is not far from Mannington Mills in Salem NJ. I have been past it many times. :)
    • Like Like x 1
  10. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Those safes seem short to me at 6' so if I was to get one I would build a platform to put it on.
  11. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Just an update, flooring is being installed tomorrow!
    We got Mannington Adura Max in Acacia Tigers Eye. I will be posting photos of before and after, once done!

    As a side note, I could NOT find any quarter round to match my dark baseboards so I had to STAIN 100 ft in Red Mahogany. Did it last night actually....last minute, as we squeezed a weeks vacation in before this install LOL. The planks are in the room with me now, I love the way they look! So, stay tuned....update to follow.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I stain all the quarter round that I do. I like 1/2" quarter round over what manufactures have which is usually 3/4" round. Can't find it in oak here anymore, nobody stocks it so I order it in quantity.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. deb68

    deb68 Member

    I am very Happy with the way the floor turned out!

    20171002_164316.jpg 20171002_164404.jpg 20171002_164427.jpg
    • Like Like x 1
    • Winner Winner x 1
  14. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    You should be! Looks great.

    Nice work getting that quarter round to match your base.
  15. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Thanks Mark....I look at that quarter round that I stained and think to myself how great I did matching it LOLOLOL. 20170927_175641.jpg

    see that flooring under that quarter round? that's our original floors after removing the carpet (only on our empty rental side...we putting carpet in there eventually) but this is what my floor looked like too...except we also had patches of this in various places:

    got an area rug with felt pad this week too
  16. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Ditto on the great job matching the 1/4 round. I had to zoom in on my phone to see it but I knew it must have been there since it would have been insanity to mess with the original wood base.
    • Like Like x 1
  17. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    I have a claim working it's way through the courts right now with the same flooring. Well to be fair, I don't think it is there yet but it's moving along. Just a word to the wise.... don't let your house get down to 10 degrees Celsius 24 hours after your job is done and you won't have a problem :)
  18. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Chris...During the process of trying to find quarter round to match I was ready to pull out my hair. I was wishing the baseboards were white lol. I know old original wood is not the in thing right now, but this house being built in 1918...would be not right to paint over it...in our opinion. I found an old can of stain in the basement that was likely here when we bought it in 1998. I was so happy it was a match.
    • Like Like x 1
  19. deb68

    deb68 Member

    Yikes Mark....I am hoping the floor does not give us a problem. I still have to put felt pads under that heavy desk...have old carpet under it now....and the safe has to come back in the room yet. 24 Celsius is what in farenheight? Our house is usually 69-72 f.

    Right now I am struggling with how to clean the marks from install....kinda smudgy finger prints. Going to try apple cider vinegar for now....plus order the Mannington floor cleaner from amazon.
  20. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Preserving original woodwork is always in style. Might not be the cheapest or easiest thing to do but quality craftsmanship never goes out of style. Thumbs up for not taking the easy way out.
    • Like Like x 2
    • Agree Agree x 1

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