Underlayment makes range too high

Discussion in 'Floor Preparation' started by Bev, Jun 11, 2011.

  1. Bev

    Bev Member

    Thanks! Although he did do a nice job on the floor installation, we've come across a bit of a problem--I'm wondering if anyone has had this happen before (although I suspect you pros know better than this). We have been building our kitchen with the help of library books, youtube videos, online forums, etc., and I'm afraid we are doing it mostly one step at a time, so we didn't do all the research we should have ahead of some steps. We installed our cabinets before really thinking a lot about our flooring :ohno:, so when we realized we would have to put in 3/8" underlayment in order to bring our vinyl flooring up high enough to meet our carpeted adjoining rooms, my husband installed it only after he had installed the cabinets. Everything looked fine until yesterday, when we tried installing our slide-in cooktop range. You can probably guess what's next--yup, the cooktop is sitting a bit too high! My husband tried removing all the vinyl flooring under the range and all four of its legs. He's even removed the back legs of the range and cranked the front legs down as low as possible, but there's still about a quarter-inch gap between the cooktop and counter top. He's come up with two options: 1. Cut out the 3/8" underlayment from under the range, but then the bottom range drawer might not open (it's sitting pretty low). Also, he's thinking he'd have to belt-sand the skimcoat off the underlayment to even find the screws and staples he used for installation (he only put screws along the edges, maybe a foot apart, so there are probably only 4 or 5 screws in that part of the underlayment). Option 2. Use some black rubber weatherstripping to fill in the 1/4" gap between the cooktop and counter top, and just leave the underlayment alone. Any comments (other than "doh!")?
  2. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    This deserves a topic of its own. Post moved.

  3. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    This is a bit of a "jimmy rig" but it will work.

    Take the drawer out, draw a circle around each leg, then remove the range and cut out the circles. The range will drop into the hole, it is tough to remove the range later but it will work to lower the range. It beats taking the whole area out.
  4. Bev

    Bev Member

    Thanks--I did suggest that to my husband, but he's concerned that the bottom drawer on the range won't open if we do that. I think we'll probably just go with putting some rubber weatherstripping in the gap. It's only 1/4", so I don't think it will look too bad, and apparently there isn't a lot of heat under that edge. I just don't think it's worth going to all that trouble of cutting out that whole piece of underlayment, or even just cutting holes for the legs (and he's already removed the back legs, so the stove is sitting on its frame on the floor in the back). Thanks for your input, though! I hope others will learn from our experience...
  5. rugaddict

    rugaddict Pro Member

    can you raise the countertops?
  6. Bev

    Bev Member

    No, I'm afraid not--we just spent about five grand to have them installed (they're Corian)--one of the two items we've hired out (the other was the bricklaying on the outside of the house). I guess we'll just have to live with a cooktop that's a little higher than the counter top--it could've been worse, I suppose...
  7. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Maybe you can get a thin piece of Corian to match your counter top and slide it under. It would make it look like a planned thing.

  8. Bev

    Bev Member

    Thanks, Daris, but by the time I got up today, DH had already installed the black rubber weatherstripping. I think it will be fine, and he likes that it has a little give... Here's a photo of how it turned out...

    Attached Files:

  9. cproader

    cproader All over T's last nerve Senior Member

    Ain't gonna ask what DH stands fer......:ohno:....but that looks like a great fix. Just keep some tire shine on it.....:cool:
  10. Bev

    Bev Member

    Oh, sorry, I thought DH was a common abbreviation for Dear Husband--it was my first usage of it. (I've seen it used on other forums.) Anyway, thanks--yeah, we'll keep that baby shined up real purty! ;)
  11. rusty baker

    rusty baker Well-Known Member

    It is a common abbreviation. CP is just....well......CP.:blink:
  12. nimrod

    nimrod Pro Member

    something obviously is not right some where....stove such as yours are made to fit flush on counter and SHOULD be adjustable to fit flush, even with 3/8" underlayment. Standard cabinet height should be 34 1/2" from top to bottom and top of countertop should be 36" from bottom of cabinet. IF those numbers jive with what you have I would be going back to where I bought the cooktop/stove and ask what gives.....
  13. Ed

    Ed Charter Member

    To me it looks like the counter tops are not the normal thickness which would account for her heighth difference.
  14. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    By the picture she posted in another topic, it appears that the counter tops are standard. I am wondering about the cabinets though. I have a sink base cabinet the same width as hers, but the doors on mine look taller than Bev's. Could it be that the cabinets were made shorter than standard? Bev?

    Here's a comparison of hers and mine. I might be wrong.

    Attached Files:

  15. nimrod

    nimrod Pro Member

    I agree with Jim that counter top is standard thickness.1 1/2". First pic does look thinner as Ed said but second pic looks more like what it should be.Would like to know measurement from top of counter top to top of finished floor. If 35 1/2 " or more I would be going back to appliance store to complain. If less I would be asking my cabinet supplier. All these things are made STANDARD sizes for a reason....
  16. Bev

    Bev Member

    This is from DH:
    The cabinets were exactly 34-1/2" high, installed on the plywood subfloor. The countertop is 1-1/2" thick, bringing the total to the expected 36". However, we installed 3/8" plywood underlayment on top of the plywood subfloor, plus 1/8" vinyl on top of the underlayment. That's a total of 1/2" that has to be subtracted from the 36", so the height of the countertop (measured from the top of the vinyl) is 35-1/2". Still disappointing that the range manufacturer (Kenmore Elite) wouldn't give the installer that 1/2" of wiggle room so that the slide-in range (retail price $1,919) could be seated to the top of the countertop.

    (At least we got the range from a Sears Outlet for a deep discount!)
  17. nimrod

    nimrod Pro Member

    That might be the reason for your problem right there.....could be seconds or some mistake when manufactured.
  18. Bev

    Bev Member

    It had a couple parts that were damaged, but they didn't affect the height. The picture below is from the installation instructions... According to them, with a minimum counter top of 35 7/8" that leaves only 1/8" tolerance from the standard 36" counter top height!
    Note to self: Always read the appliance installation instructions before installing cabinets! :(

    Attached Files:


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