Tiling Around Curved Shower Base

Discussion in 'Ceramic and Stone Q&A' started by BobL22, Aug 3, 2017.

  1. BobL22

    BobL22 Member

    Hi folks,

    I am an avid DIYer, and found this site whilst searching for some bathroom floor ideas. I am remodeling our Master Bath with new fixtures, including a corner shower surround. The house is well constructed (circa 1950), and includes a traditional mud floor in the bathroom. Most of the floor is in excellent condition, so I decided to "work around it", since, as many of you have likely experienced, it is a pain in the a&& to remove it. However, the prior owners hid some water damage underneath the old shower unit. So, I replaced all the sub-flooring with 3/4" pressure treated plywood, and used a diamond blade to get a nice straight cut on the exiting tile/mud floor. The challenge is that I have a corner unit with a radius fitting inside a rectangular sub-floor. My original thought was to use a contrasting tile, but now I'm thinking of filling the varying gap with concrete and colored top coat. I've included a picture below that shows the base unit in position. Any/All comments and suggestions are welcome! Thanks in advance, Bob
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I'd have to remove the rest of tile and put a nice floor in. Not sure what floor I want in both my bathrooms.

    You could remove the same width on other side, use the demoed area to fill in and make radius on squared corner, then find a mosaic that could tie into the shower base.
     
  3. BobL22

    BobL22 Member

    Thanks - yes, I considered that, but results in other issues since there's a built-in radiator that's just out of view. Hence, why I was thinking of a contrasting color (dark gray or maroon) concrete floor.
     
  4. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    You could fill that spot, then patch the tile smooth and put a Luxury vinyl tile or plank over top.

    I once was looking into those type showers but the elbow room deterred me. I think I got in one at Lowes on display.
     
  5. BobL22

    BobL22 Member

    Mike, Thank you - that is another option I had not considered. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks again.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Any way you do it, it will take some skill to scribe into that curved base.
     
  7. Kman

    Kman Tile Expert I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    Did you put pressure treated plywood in the area outside the shower, or just underneath it?

    You really don't want PT wood where tile will be installed, as PT wood tends to shrink and warp as it dries out, and tile just can't handle that movement.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Agreed, I meant to comment on that, in theory it's perfect, no rotting/insecticide/moisture tolerable, but unstable as its soaked with water and when it dries to climate controlled environment it can move drastically.
     
  9. BobL22

    BobL22 Member

    Agreed - thanks.
     
  10. BobL22

    BobL22 Member

    Oh - great point thanks. Currently, it's all PT, but I can fix that easily.
     
  11. Tom Potter

    Tom Potter I Support TFP

    If your tiling around that base you're best bet for cuts is a ring saw. Probably the best tile tool i own. What used to take hours & a lot of patience with a grinder takes minutes. Also with flawless results. Perfect curves, circles, you name it. Definitely buy one if you do enough tile work.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  12. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member

    I bought a ring saw just before I hung up my 'pro' title and traded it in for 'former'. Haven't used it since my very last tile job, but I have two bathroom remodels on the horizon, and am looking forward to dusting it off. Husquavarna makes a great convertible table-hand saw.
     
  13. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    OK, maybe I am missing something here... possible, I'm not that smart, but why not just remove the shower base if that is the stage of construction you are at and tile under it? I know that I would sell my first born to get away with removing everything in my way before I had to go and monkey cuts around it.
     
    • Winner Winner x 1
  14. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Tile really shouldn't go under anything fixed in place. Cabinets, tubs, etc., I guess stuff that's easily removable like base, toilets,etc.

    Cutting around things may not look best, but sometimes unavoidable and should look professional, precise. Take doorjambs, they should always be undercut for ceramic. Metal doorjambs for vct is another, they would be easier if they could be undercut, yet not practical, they then get scribed.

    I saw those ring saws when they first came out, (Coverings, previously named ?)they looked way underpowered. I think they were cutting the 4x4 wall tile at the demonstration.
    Kinda reminds me of the big circle inventors try and make a motorcycle into. Crash!
     
  15. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    Not to derail this thread but I would have to disagree. Undercutting steel door jambs is practical, it is just time consuming. It provides for a professional finish and cutoff blades are readily available for all of Crains professional series jamb saws. There is probably nothing more "unprofessional" looking in this industry then when I see laminate flooring in condo/apartments with scribed around metal door jam. Not to mention the time it takes to properly scribe even VCT around a steel door case I would argue could be done faster undercutting. Opinions are just that though, so mine is open to debate :)
     
    • Like Like x 1
  16. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Last tile floor job I did I was underdutting the door jambs when the guy who was doing the shower tile said he had a scribe template to mark the tile for cutting around the door jamb:eek: I'd say at least 50% of flooring I see when I go places is cut around the jambs. Just simple square cuts and the gap is filled with grout. Looks like crap

    I've herd that it's against code to undercut metal door jambs so I've never done it.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  17. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I probably would have done it(metal jambs) but hesitant due to thinking the heavy doorframe would mess up the fastening system.

    I've wanted to do it forever, just not shown the difficulty, back when we were installing oscillating tools were either non existent or specialty tools not known.

    I'd suppose the metal frame is chintzy, measured in gauge verse standard tape measure thicknesses.

    If I were in front of you and you demonstrated your method, my evaluation would be instant to decide the new method/occasional method/or bag of tricks method.
     
  18. Tom Potter

    Tom Potter I Support TFP

    Wood jamb/metal jamb, Their getting undercut. It takes way more time to scribe that to just under cut. Not to mention how much cleaner it looks.
    Also, what if you have a porcelain or ceramic tile that falls right in the middle of a jamb? Not exactly like you can hit it with a torch to bend it around the thing.
     
  19. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Wood always, agreed. Metal I asked about maybe 3-4 years ago on here, didn't see anyone doing it.

    Where we were on a prep job at a big church the GC asked us what height we wanted doors off floor for LVP, they raised 1/8". Also they got to use my drywall dolly, and any other cooperation they needed.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  20. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I've tried to get the door guys to set their doors with enough clearance for our flooring. So far it's about 50/50 as to whether it gets done or not. Wood jambs always get undercut. Metal jambs get left as they are. Cabinet guys already blame the floor guys when the countertop guys complain about unlevel cabinets so I'm not about to start cutting metal jambs so yet another trade can cry.
     
Loading...

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.