Tile Installation Question

Discussion in 'Ceramic and Stone Q&A' started by jfloor, Aug 3, 2019.

  1. jfloor

    jfloor New Member

    Hi there,

    We are planning on applying/installing porcelain or ceremic tiles on a cement base. The area is located next to out garage and its nearly (12ftx8ft) in area. The area use to have a green outdoor carpet glued to the floor. Here are my questions:

    a) We have taken out the glued carpet and the foam/rubbery material under it but we are not sure if we need to clean the surface more or its good to go for installing tiles. Please find the image 1 attached for your reference.



    b) There is a crack in the cement that goes all the way across the area and through the garage. I am a little bit concerned about this being a structure problem or its a normal wear and tear for an old house. Please find image 2 attached for your reference



    c) There is a 1/2inch gap between floor and the wall. I am planning on putting expanding foam and caulking but I am not sure if this is correct way to fill the gap. Many articles on internet suggests not to block it/cover it because it was left there for cement to expand. Please find image 3 attached for your reference



    d) We are planning on putting a waterproof membrane on the cement floor like this one (Dural Durabase CI++ 54sq ft. 3ft. 3in. x 16ft x 1/8in. Waterproof Floor Uncoupling Mat Underlayment-CI 5m B - The Home Depot) and then just laid out the tiles on it, is it good enough or we have to do use some other materials in between to keep the flooring safe from moisture.

    Any advise is highly appreciated. Thank you
     

    Attached Files:

    • 1.jpg
      1.jpg
      File size:
      350.2 KB
      Views:
      16
    • 2.jpg
      2.jpg
      File size:
      435.2 KB
      Views:
      16
    • 3.jpg
      3.jpg
      File size:
      234.5 KB
      Views:
      16
  2. epoxyman

    epoxyman Pro Member

    The gap on the floor and drywall is normal at least it is around here but if you want To fill that gap instead of can of foam get some round backer rod then caulk over that with a good Basf Np1 caulk
    It will last for many years to come
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member Senior Member

    A good sharp 4" scraper on the rest of that residue in your pics. I would get it down to the concrete. Ditra has a good mat and have had it for years. I see that more than what you picked.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  4. Thinset will not have a strong/any? bond to the adhesive. Professionally? it should be removed by dust controlled grinding. Then the thinset mechanically bonds into the slab and you can see hairline cracks with grinding and apply crack suppression membranes to specific or full area. If you tile over it, it will lay there and may not appear to be unbonded over time.

    I’d probably recarpet it but still looks too contaminated for new adhesive.

    Tile does need perimeter expansion, just removed a cheap tile that appeared to be repaired many times before I assume disgust prevailed and a new product will be installed.

    In general I prefer roll on crack suppression 3 tile wide unless the amount of cracks surpass feasibility then entire area would be done again with liquid applied. Proper thickness and coats of course.

    Looked back through pics and found one with tile over carpet adhesive residue. On the positive side because that’s just the type of person I am, it will be easy to remove in future as the thinset should only stick to the tile.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 4, 2019
    • Like Like x 1
  5. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member Senior Member

    Where did you get that sign Mike?
     
  6. Been waiting at least 2 months for my local sign guy to make. He got the frame from his distributor and lettered the yellow corrugated plastic. They’re somewhat big but you can insert any wording. Not sure of cost, he’s making two more for me to go inside home. Saw one the other day.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Then there’s this guy. In a certain development from what I can tell it’s all welded down. I haven’t gotten any word of who he was or if he’s still alive. SOB.

    So, you can go over whatever you want from it not “sticking” to no way on earth is it necessary to bond so well, not even vehicle traffic needs such a bond.

    There’s thinset designed to go over cracks, it’s specially made, I prefer easy steps, you’re thinsetting anyway, my as well take care of the crack isolation issue built into the thinset as well.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.