Tile cove

Discussion in 'Ceramic & Stone Sales and Installations' started by kwfloors, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I snapped a picture of the tile in this bath. Is this the way tile cove is done? I would have thought it would be on top of the floor tile. Still it looks sloppy.

    Attached Files:

  2. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    I believe there are two different types of cove tile profiles. You one you set the wall first, the other the floor first. I believe it's more usual for the floor tiles to be cut up to the coved wall tiles...which to me just seems pointless.
  3. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    That's just sloppy workmanship-----walls and floor.

    Walls go first so you get the proper elevations all around.
  4. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    There's several things going on there. It looks like that base is designed to sit atop tile.floor is set first to go under base. A ledger board is set one or two tile up for a level line, then tiled down with base cut on top part of coved tile for varying heights.

    The grout joint is inconsistent and also should be of flexible material to allow for movement. There is cove designed to be rounded into floor tile, where the rounded portion is same height as floor tile, is it called Sanitary base? We couldn't start a job in Connecticut at Sbarro pizza until we got the base to know the layout and start setting.

    I think cove is getting more rare as I see most tile is just straight and buts square to floor.
  5. epoxyman

    epoxyman Pro Member

    About 99% of the time on the prints or on the specs
    It will say no top setting of base for wall tiles when
    You have a cove base as in the picture.
    The reason they say is they like a smooth look
    From floor to wall.
    I've done them both ways just takes longer to cut the
    Floors into the base
  6. casemill

    casemill Pro Member

    Those cove tiles were designed to have the field cut to them and then grouted. If you want a really bullet proof job, don't grout the joint between the base and the field tile, but, instead use matching caulk. I'm talking about caulk that is made by the maker of the grout that you used in the field tiles. Why, you ask? Ok, you didn't ask, but the reason is that the walls will move. People hit them, bump into them and if regular solid, static, nonelastic grout is used, it will eventually break. I've installed to cove trim a lot of times, I just grouted it. Never heard about any problems.
  7. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Here's what any change of plain looks like when not soft joint(hairline crack) Just random picture at customers house what I typically see.

    Also there should be a gap if tile is resting on top of floor tile. Doing a removal customer says here's extra tile in case you break a wall tile. Right then and there my attitude changed. Later I heard customer didn't want to pay for prep for plank from carpet removal by other installer. Retailer had to go and let them know the crew will be leaving.

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  8. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    That brings out another point. The laticrete caulk they got that was to be the color match to the grout but it wasn't the same color. So all the corners are a different color but they are going to change it.

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