this is ingenious

Discussion in 'Floorcovering Video Collection' started by Omnipotent, Apr 29, 2014.

  1. Omnipotent

    Omnipotent Flying Dutchman

    [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_e9ImlUMiU"]Armstrong Vinyl Flooring - Wet Room Installation and Maintenance Guidelines - YouTube[/ame]

    if i ever have to do a self-coved linoum job. i know how to do it.
     
  2. Jon Scanlan

    Jon Scanlan That Kiwi Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I call that style of patterning by remote
    I take the paper up past the chalk line then mark the chalk line marks straight onto the paper at the same time marking the mitres. A lot less to go wrong as you aren't transferring lots of marks by using that "T"
    Also using a paint roller instead of a trowel is a lot quicker Only thing with a paint roller don't roll to fast as the glue wips off onto your arms :)
     
  3. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    ****************************
    It's a nice demonstration of some of the basics. Our drains in the U.S.A. are always set so we have to recess scribe or freehand them dead net. I wouldn't try to use the pattern felt for the drain as we're not going to drop the sheet in THAT accurate.

    Another thing I saw contradicted what I recently was trained to do and that's allow some "flash" for the urethane/epoxy. It may be a slightly different type of "polyurethane" adhesive but I doubt it. Our guys (instructors) at the class both agreed to ROLL out the epoxy after spreading with the trowel with a paint roller to eliminate the trowel ridge telegraphing and then DONT drop the goods in straight away. We can't always follow this rule as the glue and room circumstances dictate the pace. But when feasible I do like to give the urethane/epoxy a little tack/flash time. It's easier to avoid gas/air bubbles underneath the sheet and you also can handle the sheet better as you drop it in when the glue GRABS your set marks and there's less slip sliding away.

    I never "got" the "T" template method. I don't use it. I never saw anyone else use it. I just run the felt up the wall 4" or 6" as the case may be and mark down from the cap metal or chalk lines with my dividers/small square and the inside corners with my dividers. That's what I'm comfortable with and have never had any difficulties with my pattern scribing.

    I don't agree with using an acrylic contact if there is a solvent based available. We take those acrylic/water based contact cement cans and deposit them ASAP in the nearest trash receptacle. Maybe Armstrong made one that's not garbage. Maybe not. I want the solvent based contact or I'll just use the same glue on the floor and walls all around.

    Screw that crap.
     
  4. Omnipotent

    Omnipotent Flying Dutchman

    so how do you do your outside corners if you run the felt up to the wall. Don't tell me you're making a booth.
     
  5. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    Yes, we ordinairliy make boot plugs. But even if they want a butterfly outside corner plug locating the correct point for it with a pattern is actually simpler with the paper run up the wall. Simpler for me anyway. For the boot I use my small square against the bottom of the cove stick on the side with the plug and cut it out of the pattern so I don't have to cut any of that in the glue. The other side I just leave the paper a hair over the corner of the wall and trim the material net to the wall after it's installed, assuming it's to be welded.
     
  6. strip buster

    strip buster my way is the best way. Charter Member

    i might cop a bit o stick from this but when im using 2 part epoxy i add a little extra.-methylated spirits- cheap as chips to buy. it makes it easier to spread and evaporates very quickly.....and this guy in the vid was just doing normal commercial vinyl,y was he templating? cove bars anyone?
    this is a covebar set,it can be set from 80mm- 250mm. (sorry u will have to convert for U.S measurements). :cool:
     

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    Last edited: May 1, 2014
  7. CGDesignertp

    CGDesignertp Pro Member

    That would be roughly 31.5 inches to 98.4 inches for us Americans. The conversion table is 2.54 millimeters is equal to 1 inch....Yes I am that Science Nerd who remembers this stuff even after college being done with a decade ago
     
  8. strip buster

    strip buster my way is the best way. Charter Member

    sounds better my way,no accent. ......
     
  9. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    I've heard of adding thinners to the mix if it hardens before you can get the whole batch spread out. I was told-----so this is second hand----that an installer was taught this as a manufacturer's training. Might have been said off the record as those guys will share some tricks with you that aren't always Kosher.

    Can you describe exactly how you use the covebar set. I can't figure it out from the photo and have not otherwise seen nor heard of such a tool.
     
  10. strip buster

    strip buster my way is the best way. Charter Member

    first,the metho in the mix would work the same as thinners and as you said,it was by an installer thru a rep. though it does work.

    cove bar set was designed here in oz a few yrs back, it was called ''cove cut'
    an american firm bought the use of the name about 3 yrs ago so the company now call it al cove.
    way it works- set ur desired height with the legs in the pic. you can either use it first as a marker(instead of a string line , like in video) since u mark the walls up first with no material installed with a pencil,that pencil line will fall the thickness of the material used below the final cut.(I don't mark up the walls-i use a paint roller the same height as the cove i am installing......for 100ml cove i use a 75 ml roller for a 150 ml cove i use a 130 ml roller-with the arm of the roller on the floor it gives an exact match to the required height.....roller is for fhe contact adhesive).
    once ur material is installed tight against the wall simply put ur cove bar against material firmly and run ur blade across the top of the cove bar and thats it . matial falls away and you have ur tops cut with no templating required.

    gotta say i am suprised you guys don't have them over there. such an awesome tool. i think there about $150 for the set. all legs are interchangeable and adjustable. ....hope this is clear.
     
  11. Omnipotent

    Omnipotent Flying Dutchman

    No, i think it's more like 3.15 inc to 9.84. 31.5 inch is where my scrotum is, never seen a cove that high.
     
  12. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    Yeah, I get it. Makes sense to own such a gizmo if you frequently run the flooring up the walls with a seam there where the cap metal normally would be. I've not done enough flooring that runs up the walls like there where I would need such a tool. In fact, of the very few times I did run a cove material up as a "wainscot" (?) I recall a couple where we STILL put a cap metal 6" off the floor. The floor trimmed into the cap metal and the wall covering linoleum was set directly (butt) to the cap. It was really easy money as we didn't even need to weld that joint. I didn't like the look.
     

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