Subfloor over concrete - dricore or diy?

Discussion in 'Flooring Potpourri' started by S. Porter, Jul 25, 2019.

  1. S. Porter

    S. Porter New Member

    I have to replace a dricore subfloor ruined by a burst pipe flood. The dricore was installed over a concrete floor poured in what was a crawl space below a basement room that is above ground on one side of the house and below grade on the other three. The entire concrete floor is below grade. The floor was poured badly, so there are some patches where the concrete does not cover the rocks and dirt below the concrete floor. Those below grade were just left, and those above grade were encased in floor leveler. The concrete floor also does not meet the concrete sill on the above-grade wall solidly.

    Trying to figure out how to replace the subfloor. I could use dricore again, however i believe the basement smelled musty because dricore does not create a complete vapor barrier. If I go with OSB over DMX or a similar product, is there a way to extend the vapor barrier to the sill so that the moisture does not seep in around the sill and make the basement smell musty?
     
  2. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    The crawlspace is not needing flooring right?

    Wood is a natural material that supports mold growth.

    It’s difficult to picture your situation. Normally dehumidification controls excessive moisture. The breaching of moisture vapor barrier or ability to use one hinders the moisture migration. The saying in industry is “wet goes to dry”
     
  3. S. Porter

    S. Porter New Member

    The crawl space no longer exists. There was a wood framed floor over a dirt crawlspace. The floor was removed, the crawl space filled with concrete to create a cement floor, and then laminate flooring was installed on dricore laid on the concrete.

    The dricore and laminate were destroyed when s pipe burst. Trying to figure out what subfloor system to replace it with? And if there is any way to extend the vapor barrier over the imperfections in the concrete floor, and whether doing so will reduce the musty smell
     
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  4. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    When convenient can you provide a picture of space? Odors of mildew are caused by food source and moisture. If the space is not climate/humidity controlled then nature will do as designed.

    The time for the proper barrier was before concrete poured. Saying that I monitor my humidity yet still sneeze from some unknown allergen. Recently learned I need to increase my Merv level from an 8 filter to 11 to capture spores. That said there’s still no way to prevent outside air from entering my home without spending extreme money to eradicate indoor allergens.
     
  5. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I figured you would just bring one of your air scrubbers into the house and run it for a few hours.
     
  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Thought about it. The wife turns off my dehumidifier when I run it in the bathroom, it creates heat and noise. Something I’ve heard water damage homes doing turning off equipment due to noise. Uh, hoping not to have to move up north due to allergies. Something in the air during summer isn’t jiving. Dizzy, etc. both of us.
     
  7. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    You can’t escape allergies. You just experience different allergies depending on where you live. I get hay fever up here during hay season of course. It’s way better than the allergies I had in Portland. Mold? Grass? Who knows. I didn’t have any allergies in L.A. or Vegas but I don’t want to live there.

    Back to the topic at hand. Why not just go back with dri core. It worked before. If you’re fairly handy you can even do it yourself.
     
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