Stapling hard cap for coving vinyl.

Discussion in 'Vinyl & Rubber Flooring Sales and Installations' started by Steve Olson, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Got a new Duofast electric tacker a while back, used it last night to hang some cove cap and stick. VERY frustrating. The staples would not consistently go thru the cap. now and then one would go thru, but most just wadded up. During the time I was without the electric tacker, I used my small air compressor and narrow crown stapler shooting 5/8" staples, and I'll have it back in my truck tonight.
    Are the guns just not what they used to be, or is it the staples? Pad and tacker staples used to be copper, or maybe copper coated, they went in fine for the most part.
  2. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I’ve found that I have to shoot the staples half way in the holes. One leg goes through the hole and the other leg penetrates the cap metal. Not enough oomph to make both legs penetrate the metal. That’s about all that works without breaking out the air compressor.

    The double stick foam tape builds the metal out too far and the booger tape isn’t quite thick enough for anything less than a perfect wall. Aim for the holes.
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  3. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Yes, I agree with and have done the above. I was doing some tearout in the break room that had existing coved vinyl. I could see no fasterners at all; closer examination exposed small brads fired up near the lip, almost invisable. Too far apart I thought, but they had done the job.
    One side of the cabinet in each room has a flush side that needs cap; electric tacker, and staples from my underlayment gun wadded up, didn't have my double face foam tape, but a double layer of the booger seemed to do the job ok, but I tried my brad nailer shooting 5/8 brads, and they went thru and held. Had to fool with the air pressure to keep them on the right side of the cap metal, but it worked.
    Thanks Chris!
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  4. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    We don't staple or nail the cap metal. Snap the lines, contact cement on the wall 1/8" below the line. 2-faced tape goes on the contact cement following the chalk lines. Fit the cap metal one 8' length at a time. Double check the fit before you peel the paper. Peel the paper and press with a lino knife or 2" hand roller.

    Never had a problem. Of course it's quicker to JUST staple or use blue nails (residential with timber framing. But our way works for us 100% every time.
  5. Barry Carlton

    Barry Carlton I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    I've been using pneumatic brads for over 25 years.
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  6. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Just never occurred to me to try it.
  7. RFI

    RFI Mr. Nefarious Senior Member

    Ryobi makes a rechargeable stapler that works fantastic for this, shoots a narrow crown staple and the staple depth is adjustable. Runs around a $100 bucks and we have been using it for a couple of years now. It will have no problem shooting staples through metal cap even when stapling through wainscot such as p-lam.

    For concrete walls the only real option is the contact and tape metal, absolutely despise using it, not a practical choice for most applications.
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