Stand Up Concrete Nailer

Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment and Supplies' started by JayP, Jan 9, 2019.

  1. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    Hi everybody. I was wondering if anybody had any experience using a stand up concrete nailer. I know Gundlach makes one. I was thinking of buying one, but can’t find much information or any reviews on it.

    I’ve been doing a ton of concrete work lately, and I’ve gotten pretty good over the years at nailing into concrete, but I’m looking for a good way to speed the process. Especially since I resort to the hammerdrill/ aluminum drive method when I can’t get a nail to sink. If you’ve done that, you know how time consuming it can be.
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  2. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I have one, I like it and would recommend. Works really well nailing into clamp moldings or aluminum channels for inserts.

    Kyle Nelson can go a bit further for perimeter tackstrip.
  3. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Around here we have really hard concrete mostly. Some new ones are softer but I do like you, hammer drill and alumidrives. If I have a lot and its more than one day, I Pl adhesive it so if a nail doesn't bite it still grabs. Need to have a clean floor where you glue it for it to hold.
  4. Tom Potter

    Tom Potter I Support TFP

    I have one as well. In my area their only good for new concrete. Basically 1 job out of 20 that are new concrete & maybe a dozen stretch in over concrete jobs a year. So it really hasn't earned itself a spot on my van.

    Hammer drill & aluminum drives are my go to. Pain in the ass, absolutely. But tried & true.
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  5. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    Thanks for the info guys. I think I’ll get one and try it out. They’re only abot 80$ which is pretty cheap as specialized tools go.
  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I almost got to the level of a high pressure pneumatic nailer. Not sure if it would’ve worked everywhere. As above concrete hardness/integrity varies severely. It can be weak throughout.

    Mastic pulled up the surface of this slab using chipping hammer. Think floating lvp is going down. There’s going to be some floating alright.

    I’d find a used one on Craigslist or pawn shop for 30-40% of retail.

    Here In Florida most Concrete is soft. Our aggregate is limerock, followed by overwatered, over troweled, not cured properly, rained on, and anything else I missed.

    Attached Files:

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  7. Mike Sliwinski

    Mike Sliwinski The Doctor Is In I Support TFP Senior Member

    It's a great tool for your helper ( wood or concrete ) then come behind with reinforcement nails or aluminum drives. Be prepared to have a sore four-harm and remember to let go of the handle, not everyone understands
    that concept. o_O
  8. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    They don't work here at all.
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  9. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    If I could gather some logic!! If a case hardened concrete nail can’t be hammered in regular way then a standup weighted nail driver will not work as well.

    The pros for me were- I can’t hammer accurate or straight down. That right there means I bend nails collide with baseboard pre bend clampdown metal needing to go to repair shop. So it can hammer close to wall, drive pin straight down, and not destroy the finish textured aluminum clampdown.

    Ken, you’ve tried the 400 psi concrete nailguns? There was another one I was looking into name like aeronailer? Odd shape/design.

    So where you out of Jay?
  10. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    Northeast Massachusetts
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  11. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    What’s your aggregate, stone? Sedimentary rock?

    I’ve wondered about the physics of a nail going into concrete. Wood is easily understood as the fibers are displaced and low compression. Powder actuated is also fascinating I assume the speed of a bullet into a slab also offers advantages.

    I guess there is enough area within the dimension of the nail for the surrounding concrete to move laterally for the driven nail to penetrate. You can’t drive a nail through tile or glass yet they say glass is really a liquid. Getting deep huh?

    So this evolves from “why are these nails busting out concrete for this particular job when others penetrated”
  12. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    I think it’s stone - limestone and granite, but I’m not sure. To be honest, I never really thought about it!
  13. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    I talked to a guy that travels the country building OReilly auto part stores and he said our concrete was the hardest he’s seen. I like the stand up nailer, generally the same success rate as a hammer but easier on you and you’ll never hit baseboards. I much prefer using a sds plus hammer drill with 1/4” bit and dowels. I never wait for glue and cost is way lower than pl glue. I bought a box of dowels for $50 on ebay that ive had for five years. You can put flat metal down like a dream on concrete too with it.
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  14. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    Kyle, I’ve used dowels for doing metals before. My old mentor showed me that trick about a year ago. I’ve never tried it with tackstrip because I usually have aluminum drives on board.
  15. Graeme

    Graeme Pro Member

    That tool takes me back to when I was a helper. We had a big project in Whistler, and the concrete was absolutely killing me. That tool did help, but it was still tough.

    Years later, I learned more about concrete. This region uses granite for the sand / aggregate. So far, I haven't found anything under a 7.5 on the MOHS scale, even reading the occasional 9. No wonder my poor wrists were sore.

    Because of this, we switched to gluing down all our tack strip. Haven't missed swinging a hammer at concrete one bit.
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  16. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    Sds hammer drill right through tackstrip then dowel it, nail it with roofing nail for the large head. It works and makes concrete almost bearable. I’d love to learn faster ways if there is one, fastest of course is usually swinging the hammer
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  17. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Why not eliminate the dowel and use alumi drives?
  18. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    I think the first time I used the dowel trick we didn’t have any drives with us and we asked the customer if he had dowels. However, I could see someone opting for the dowels to save some money since the drives are a bit pricey.
  19. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    In 17 years of floor laying, and most of it being carpet *shudder* i have never seen the need for anything other than good ol' fashioned nails. I have no idea what you are all talking about every time you bring up alumi drives
  20. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I have my original can of Crain aluminum pins, 1/2 full. Terrazzo job.

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