Hello all, I am new DIYer member and am in the middle of slight bathroom remodel. Tub and surround staying since it is our only bathroom in household of four. I have been working around it and have made moderate progression. Currently working on the flooring prep and it has been an uphill battle where I am a standhill since I messed up. I am also a member over at DIYchatroom and it was suggested to seek advice on a forum where pros gather. I have read some posts on this site of similar issues but not quite the same. I believe I might be okay to trudge forward, but would really appreciate sage advice. TIA. I used TEC EZ Level 323 Self Leveling Underlayment and Primer from Menards and aside from it being not flat, it has developed hairline spiderweb type cracks over the whole pour. Flooring: Lowes Smartcore Pro LVP (Shaw Flooring) Subfloor: 23/32 T&G OSB with 2×10 Joists @ 16" OC and floor joists span roughly 22 ft (the width of the house) with 8" beam at 10 ft. where the bathroom entryway (load bearing) wall starts. The beam is in a finished garage space with a hard lid. Sub Floor was just over an inch out of level from where two load bearing walls to the diagonal corner which is where the partition wall meets the exterior wall. Also, there was a valley on either side of the joist that sits down center of the entryway where 2 OSB sheets were loosely butted together. Read a few things and watched some videos and I figured floor leveling was the best option. I mean what could go wrong? What I did: 1) The subfloor was stapled and glued down but I predrilled and put 2-1/4" deck screws every 4"-6" to make sure is was tightly secured to the floor joists. 2) Replaced the 1/4" plywood underlayment with new IntegraPly 1/4" (Exterior Glued, Tile Approved stuff). Ran it parallel with the OSB which is perpendicular to the joists and overlapped OSB joints. Air stapled SS 1/4" crown by 3/4" long at 1/2" in and every 2" on all perimeters and cutouts and then diagonally at every X (every 4"). 3) SLU prep: Attached adhesive weather stripping along my framing, tub, around toilet flange, built a frame and attached stripping for floor vent cut-out, built dams for main door and pocket slider doorway and attached weather stripping to them. 4) Swept, shop vacuumed, and damp toweled the floor. 5) Let air dry. Applied TEC primer with brush and roller at 3:1 Ratio, Let dry for over and hour. Applied second coat at 2:1 Ratio. Let dry over night. 6) Next day: Measured out water into 3 brand new buckets. Divided bags in 1/2 into 2 bucket groups so my wife could dump SLU into water bucket while I mixed with corded Hitachi drill (850 RPM max no load speed) for 3 minutes. Onced mixed I dumped and spreaded at far end (the lowest point). Came back did that two more times. Didn't use all of 3rd bucket. 8) Cleaned up buckets and tools 9) Came back watched it for hour or so. 10) Realized I screw the pooch. Things quickly went to hell in a handbasket: the main doorway dam failed to seal at a corner and didn't notice at first. When I did stop the leak, it was already too late since the damage was already done and it was already setting up. Never caught the fact that part of the seal failed on toilet flange at the front where it it was a bit higher than the floor. That SLU actually went past/under the OSB. I now have a valley or low areas around the toilet and by the door. Plus, it was rough in those low areas. The SLU has also developed hairline cracks the spider webbed out. Unfortunately, even with all my reading of directions and watching videos, which was typically over concrete subfloors not plywood. I somehow completely missed the fact that you are supposed to use lath/mesh stappled over the plywood. 11) So, I tapped all over the SLU with a screw driver handle and couldn't hear any hollow sounds as I read in someone elses post. Tried to pry some up at the cracks at both door ways but it doesn't budge. I believe the bond with the 1/4' plywood is good. Therefore, I figured that they were cracks from shrinkage and carved out a V along the hair cracks and troweled in TEC PerfectFinish 320. Unfortunately, the cracks have just come back in some areas. 12) I also used the TEC PerfectFinish 320 product to build up and level out the low areas. That has been and extremely slow process. I am very limited on my trowel work and it sets up quickly. It still has several low areas. Advice needed: Do I ignore the cracks and continue forward with another light spread of self leveler to get it flat for the LVP? Is this even okay to do since I used the FeatherFinish to try and level it out? Or did I royally screw up and this a total loss? Are the cracks are going to cause me more misery down the road? Aside from the lack or lathing is there something else I did wrong?