Shear maintenance

Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment and Supplies' started by Don Monfils, Jul 17, 2019.

  1. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    21DAC941-9751-4A7F-87DA-E6041555BB84.jpeg 5EC016DB-B832-4782-BF40-4D96F11B2C07.jpeg 599BE329-6A80-451B-881C-3CF53B71EC1A.jpeg I ordered some slick shot spray for my shears. They were starting to sound like the front door on The Munsters house.
    I was trying to think of something to clean away all the years of gunk.
    I bought a can of break clean ( brakleen) and it worked great. The black stuff oozed right out of it.
    I then sprayed the slick shot on it ... now it moves , slick as a baby’s ass !
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2019
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  2. Nice idea with the brake cleaner. The black stuff is the aluminum wearing away. Same as my chisel bits on concrete I wondered what was causing the dark marks. It’s the metal wearing the bits wearing ever so slightly.

    When I bought my brakes the manager threw in 2 extra cans of brake cleaner (total 4 with 2brake fluids). I asked why, they’re not dirty and I’m not that messy. Said it was to clean oil (preservative) off new rotors.
     
  3. Something else that might interest you is a maintenance kit from Bullet.

    Comes with the slick shot, a new honing stone to remove burrs, a blade for your specific cutter, a blade stop for your specific cutter, and bearing grease to lube the cam bearings. You can buy them direct from Bullet or you can purchase them from your Bullet dealer locally.

    Here's a link:

    Shear Maintenance Kit • Bullet Tools

    Great to see Pros who actually take care of their tools! I was always told that if you are going to hire an installer as a store owner and you don't know the guy, don't ask to see his work ask to see his tools. If his or her tools are worn but clean and reasonably orderly in the truck/work van like Don's - hire him or her. They care enough to take care of the tools that they use to make a living then they care enough to do the job right. Not infallible but pretty accurate from what I've seen over the years.
     
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  4. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    Good info, I have a couple of the honing stones, I use them often.
     
  5. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member Senior Member

    I just bought a new blade for my 9" for a wood job and the new blade after one job is worse than my old one.
     
  6. N Brand

    N Brand Flooring Tool Designer

    I little known fact about shear blades is they chip and/or dull if the first thing they are used on is really hard (like solid hardwood). What happens is the keen edge of the blade rolls into a burr, a bigger burr the harder the material. That bur gets stuck in the flooring and breaks off, taking a chip off the edge with it.

    The technique to break in a shear blade so it will last is to hone the blade after the first cut, then after 5 more, then every 20 cuts or so for the first job, then once per floor after that. Laminate flooring has aluminum oxide in the wear layer and kinda has an automatic honing effect, so some folks never realize that they are breaking in their blades on the first floor they put down.
     
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  7. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain TFP Owner/Founder Administrator

    So, the quick & easy breakin method would be to chomp down on some leftover aluminum-oxide finished laminate before every job?
     
  8. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    Yeah, good info!! My blade on my 13” magnum is all chipped up. Have only used it for engineered wood though.
     
  9. Ours chipped up on bamboo years ago, never used it for bamboo again. Only hardwood. I lent it to a removal customer he said was putting down vinyl plank then changed to laminate. Luckily no damage. I was honing but then felt it wasn’t doing anything, I didn’t ever see this bur, rolled edge.
     
  10. N Brand

    N Brand Flooring Tool Designer

    It's not as sure-fire as honing with a hone stone, but yes chomping down on some laminate scraps is a quick way to keep the burr down and help extend the blade life. The burr formed can be really small, like half the thickness of a hair. I like to drag a penny or down off the edge of the blade (from the flat side) to check for a burr - it will catch on a burr, whereas it will slide off a clean edge.

    After a blade has been broken in the burr stops forming and instead honing is just needed to keep the edge sharp - laminate will not help with that part though.
     
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