Problem condo - floor prep for LVP

Discussion in 'Floor Preparation' started by Scott Horton, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    Thats the one lol
     
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  2. Scott Horton

    Scott Horton Soundproofing Pro

    Note edited reply...
     
  3. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I’ve done the same thing to encapsulate cut back adhesive. 2 coats and you’re usually good
     
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  4. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    First coat is always so bad because I dont care how hard you try scraggle pieces of vct are still everywhere :)
     
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  5. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Someone else abated the VCT so I was left with fairly smooth adhesive residue. 2 coats of Mapei and milk was approved for encapsulation. It takes a little longer to dry but that’s what you gotta do.
     
  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Mark you must’ve forgotten. Most of those product additives is Liquid Latex with vast formulations.
     
  7. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    I forget things all the time... it's what keeps life so interesting :)
    .... what were you saying ;)
     
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  8. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    So if you have to remove any subfloor panels it would be best to use a cats paw and remove the nails so you can try and just lift the sheets out as whole as possible. Running a saw through that will just put that stuff in the air. As far as the panel(s) that are under the wall, it looks as if you could use a multi tool or a toe kick saw to cut right up agains the wall. The adhesive appears to be held back enough for you to get a blade against the wall and not be disturbing the adhesive while you cut the subfloor.
     
  9. Scott Horton

    Scott Horton Soundproofing Pro

    @Chris 45 Thank you and all for the on going advice and attention.

    I'm planning on doing just that. Definitely pulling nails and definitely not cutting anymore than necessary. I'll have an every-other-board I'll have to cut I think, it's surprisingly hard to see the subfloor joints vs the old tile marks. Once determined, if I have to cut where any of the heinous adhesive is, I'll I'll use a least airborne a saw as possible. Maybe sabersaw running on wetted line, instead of a whirling circular saw dust generator.

    I went to make an inspection hole tonight and had a tool malfunction, I need to see that the wall is falling out on a joist. Will find out tomorrow.

    It will be good if I can leave the stripe of stained subfloor along the wall, and the small 2x2 patch around the corner. If I can cover the adhesive, then skim and level those areas with Mapei that will be a big help. But I'll probably just get it all out. What's another 2x10. With modern joist hangers, shouldn't be painful and I can set to correct height, etc. And as you noticed, I've got a relatively clean lien to cut with a jambsaw up against that wall.

    The main part is definitely coming out. I'm pulling the base cabinets, hopefully the tile/cut back isn't under them, too.

    This ought to be a decent floor to work with for the floor guy once I do all this mess.

    Laying one of the pre-padded thicker (e.g. 6mm-7.5mm) LVP's over Advantec is OK right?

    Thanks again, and stay tuned :)
     
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  10. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    I’m not following too closely but I grind plywood ever so often, due to replacing sander belts, pads wearing way faster, I tried one day a diamond grinder and haven’t looked back. You have to work around the turning it into dust to not gum up and HEPA toextract it with.

    Also a Toekick saw from harbor freight cuts tight against cabinets/walls etc. I bought two blades other day around 8$ each, the dull one I spent 1/2 hour for four ft. Dumb! New one cut around 20 ft in 1 hour. Just had to throw that in to the “pile”
     
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