Discussion in 'Floor Preparation' started by Scott Horton, Sep 18, 2019.
Thats the one lol
Note edited reply...
I’ve done the same thing to encapsulate cut back adhesive. 2 coats and you’re usually good
First coat is always so bad because I dont care how hard you try scraggle pieces of vct are still everywhere
Someone else abated the VCT so I was left with fairly smooth adhesive residue. 2 coats of Mapei and milk was approved for encapsulation. It takes a little longer to dry but that’s what you gotta do.
Mark you must’ve forgotten. Most of those product additives is Liquid Latex with vast formulations.
I forget things all the time... it's what keeps life so interesting
.... what were you saying
So if you have to remove any subfloor panels it would be best to use a cats paw and remove the nails so you can try and just lift the sheets out as whole as possible. Running a saw through that will just put that stuff in the air. As far as the panel(s) that are under the wall, it looks as if you could use a multi tool or a toe kick saw to cut right up agains the wall. The adhesive appears to be held back enough for you to get a blade against the wall and not be disturbing the adhesive while you cut the subfloor.
@Chris 45 Thank you and all for the on going advice and attention.
I'm planning on doing just that. Definitely pulling nails and definitely not cutting anymore than necessary. I'll have an every-other-board I'll have to cut I think, it's surprisingly hard to see the subfloor joints vs the old tile marks. Once determined, if I have to cut where any of the heinous adhesive is, I'll I'll use a least airborne a saw as possible. Maybe sabersaw running on wetted line, instead of a whirling circular saw dust generator.
I went to make an inspection hole tonight and had a tool malfunction, I need to see that the wall is falling out on a joist. Will find out tomorrow.
It will be good if I can leave the stripe of stained subfloor along the wall, and the small 2x2 patch around the corner. If I can cover the adhesive, then skim and level those areas with Mapei that will be a big help. But I'll probably just get it all out. What's another 2x10. With modern joist hangers, shouldn't be painful and I can set to correct height, etc. And as you noticed, I've got a relatively clean lien to cut with a jambsaw up against that wall.
The main part is definitely coming out. I'm pulling the base cabinets, hopefully the tile/cut back isn't under them, too.
This ought to be a decent floor to work with for the floor guy once I do all this mess.
Laying one of the pre-padded thicker (e.g. 6mm-7.5mm) LVP's over Advantec is OK right?
Thanks again, and stay tuned
I’m not following too closely but I grind plywood ever so often, due to replacing sander belts, pads wearing way faster, I tried one day a diamond grinder and haven’t looked back. You have to work around the turning it into dust to not gum up and HEPA toextract it with.
Also a Toekick saw from harbor freight cuts tight against cabinets/walls etc. I bought two blades other day around 8$ each, the dull one I spent 1/2 hour for four ft. Dumb! New one cut around 20 ft in 1 hour. Just had to throw that in to the “pile”
For posterity's sake, to wrap up this thread I started... I ended up leveling the floor sistering 2x4's and attaching with ring shank nails. Friend is a residential structural engineer and blessed my plan. New subfloor laid dead level except one area where I had to slope it to meet the rest of the condo which was about 3/16 lower than my main plane. Old floor guys laughing at that comment, 3/16 difference LOL. So whole place is flatter than any normal job. Within a 32nd in main room. well, no more than a 16th anywhere. I had one spot about 2x4 left of old kitchen flooring that was not replaced and had the old cutback adhesive. Hand scraped that up mostly and covered in 2 coats of Kilz and that seems to have cured that. Putting down Cortec Pro Plus.