New resilient flooring in mobile home confusion

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by paljack, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. paljack

    paljack New Member

    We would love to have new Mannington
    (130Mil Havana Tobacco) resilient sheet
    flooring installed throughout our 1980
    double wide mobile home located in San
    Diego CA – about 1100 S.F. excluding the
    bathrooms.

    I've been down the rabbit hole over 40 hours
    researching and reading about flooring options
    for mobile homes to educate myself before
    construction begins. And unable to talk with the
    flooring store installer until they come to measure
    the job two week before the install.

    Phase #1 is to have a new 5/8" plywood subfloor
    screwed down thru the existing particle board
    subfloor and into the floor joists. This is being
    done to prepare for the new floor as well as
    for other long term structural benefits.

    The questions we can't seem to find clear answers
    on are:

    1) Are sheet vinyl products a decent 10 year
    flooring solution for older mobile homes
    in very good condition?

    2) Which "glue down" method is preferable
    if floating this vinyl isn't practicle? The
    mfg. indicates either is acceptable.

    3) Is there a type of 5/8" plywood we could use
    which would eliminate the need for a 7/32"
    plywood underlayment over the new subfloor?

    4) Is there a need for some type of vapor barrier
    between existing and new subfloor if there is
    adequate clearance between finish grade and
    the finish floor?

    4) Are there any "issues" we should be aware of
    or consider before we finalize our plans?

    Alternate solutions or suggestions are welcome?

    Thank you in advance.
     
  2. paljack

    paljack New Member

    Oops! Found my answer to #2 above in mfg installation guidelines.
     
  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I haven't ever seen any recommendations to tie in the top layer with the joists. It's always secure first layer to joists, then next layer would be underlayment grade plywood. Fasteners should not penetrate lower layer. The seams should be offset do stiffen floor. Anything with subfloor issues would be cut out and replaced.(water damage) the underlayment would then have a crazy fastener schedule.

    No barrier between the layer.
     
  4. paljack

    paljack New Member

    Thank you Mike,

    The reasoning behind securing the new plywood to the joists is the original PB floor is 37yo and has been patched. Other sources online have indicated 5/8" doesn't constitute a structural floor so overlaying new plywood seemed to be the practical long term solution. The mfg used a 2" staples # about 8" c/c to secure the original PB and it would be very time consuming to deal with them during a rip and replace. I will however discuss your suggestions with the contractor we're using.
     
  5. Commercial Floor Rep

    Commercial Floor Rep I Support TFP Published

    That particular product is going to perform very well for you. I would put it in my own home.

    I would not float the product, I would fully adhere it. Although you live in a pretty stable weather area, quite honestly these floors perform best when fully adhered. You'll never read that in the manufacturers instructions because they don't want to put themselves at a disadvantage to another manufacturer who says loose laying is fine, but it will provide the best long term installation for you.

    The key is to try and get to a minimum 1" thick subfloor with the two layers, assuming 16" O.C. joint spacing. This will help minimize subfloor deflection (flexing when weight is put on it) and make the installation much stronger.
     
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