Need suggestions for finish trim or other options

Discussion in 'Solid and Engineered Hardwood Q&A' started by Snedman, Sep 16, 2019.

  1. Snedman

    Snedman Member

    Hardwood floor thickness, 5/8
    Where we will be running the new hardwood floor will butt up to the stair rail bottom in the hallways and loft.
    The stair rails have at the bottom a lip. From the floor to the lip is 15/16. Then at the top of the lip is 1.25 inches.

    Due to where the height of the new hardwood will sit there won't be enough to add a piece of quarter round small enough to sit over the end cuts properly and tack it in, nor would it even look right.
    The only solution I can think of (not being a professional installer) is to cut that lip off. I think that should give me enough difference between where the floor top will sit and the stair bottom portion.

    Any other ideas are more than welcome. Thanks in advance.
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  2. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    That is what i have done in the past. Those things make me crazy!! That or you can under cut it if you have enough meat on it. Looks like you do.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  3. Snedman

    Snedman Member

    Thanks Mark for the feedback.
    I am thinking I will cut that lip off and cut a piece of wood to shim up under it so I have more wood to nail into.

    I don't want to go the route of needing to lay down a 1/4 inch floor over the osb to raise it up just a tiny bit... That would add another $420 in materials not including install.

    I despise these stair rails and really want to enclose the rails. But that would probably cost an arm and a leg. But then again they need to be sanded and repainted anyway so it might end up to be the same cost to enclose them.
  4. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I’m a fan of not making more work for myself than I have to. I would try to find a way to dress that up without having to cut and paint it. I’d undercut and slip the flooring underneath then fill the remaining gap with a 1/4” or 5/16” piece of wood. Minimal painting and touch up.

    I’ve got one of those dang things to deal with myself. I’ll post some pics later showing what I came up with to finish that off.

  5. Snedman

    Snedman Member

    I look forward to seeing your idea Chris
  6. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Finally finished up this job. I had an extra stair nose that I planed down to 1/8”. I could have used a couple planks if I didn’t have anything else to use. I then ripped that down on my table saw. I attached it with a bead of silicone and 23 gauge pinners.

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    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Snedman

    Snedman Member

    I love that idea. That's real ingenuity right there.
    The installer has a guy locally that makes the noses out of the actual flooring itself so it matches exactly the piece right behind it.

    The flooring should be installed within the next week or two. Its been trying on the selection two of the colors we selected 1 was discontinued and the other not enough stock and couldn't get for a month.
    I am thinking we are going to just enclose the stair rails, drywall them and apply knockdown to match the walls. A neighbor with a similar layout by our builder enclosed them and I really like it.
    The contractor did a horrible job on detail, used a different baseboard then the rest of the room (still available at HD) and just overall very sloppy work. It looks like a child painted and cut the trim.
    I appreciate you sharing your tip.
  8. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I’ve made stair nose before but this time I’m rounding over an edge and finishing it so I don’t have to put a reducer down. I like to blue tape the boards before I route them, that way the tape is perfectly right up to the edge of my round over. Stain it, let dry a bit then I hit it with a spray poly.

    • Like Like x 1

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