Making a Spline? Lauan? Waste Percentage?

Discussion in 'Hardwood and Laminates Q&A' started by panaman, Aug 13, 2010.

  1. panaman

    panaman Member

    is there a certain kind of glue I should use on it.. or is just plain old wood glue just fine?
  2. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    I liked Titebond II.
  3. panaman

    panaman Member

    Just so you can see where I started and stuff... this may make things easier to understand what I am doing.

    Red Lines = Door Way
    Green Lines = Closet doors
    A, D & E = Bedrooms
    B = Bathroom
    C = Kitchen/Dining
    G = Basement Stairs
    F = Living room

    I only plan to lay the wood floor in the three bedrooms, the hallway and the living room.
    The room I started the flooring in is room D. I started along the middle of the house... the shared wall be between A and D. I figure I will need to make splines in the door ways of rooms D and E. At the end of the hallway as you enter the living room I will need some sort of transition piece or something..... We want to lay the floor diagonal in that room.

    Attached Files:

  4. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    The designer in me thinks you should do the diagonal in the Lv & Hall, if you're going to do diagonal at all. But wherever you start the diagonal, just put one or 2 boards next to it. You'll have to use a router to groove the diagonal cuts and possibly one side of the transition boards and then use a spline. You don't need a transition threshold to change directions. Just use the flooring - easier to clean, walk on and looks much nicer. Below are 2 examples of diagonal transitions I did on a couple jobs.


    Attached Files:

  5. hookknife

    hookknife Hard Surface Installer Charter Member Senior Member

    I make my splines with my table saw, and out of oak, no big deal. Or you can by them from the wood manufacturer, they are commonly used.
  6. panaman

    panaman Member

    I was kind of thinking that I could use one of the boards and put it sideways and use it as the transition piece..... Not to sure about doing diagonal in the hallway though... just for the fact its long and narrow and my boards are 4 inches wide..... I do own a router... you got any idea where I could get a router bit that could grove out 1/8 of an inch.... they dont sell them at home depot..

    On a side note I am about 3/4 the way done with the bedroom... kinda sucks i keep having to stop because my daughter needs to sleep.. she's just a little toddler and gets cranky with all my banging and my loud air compressor. Hopefully I can finish it tomorrow after work and get some pictures up.
  7. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    You can get router bits at any place that sells tools. If Home Depot doesn't have them, try Sears, Harbor Freight or any other place that sells tools - even online, where you can have one sent overnight, if necessary.

    I know what you mean about the starting and stopping. I have to do that all the time these days - not because of a child or even another adult, but because of me. :hu: See what you got to look forward to in your old age? [​IMG]

  8. panaman

    panaman Member

    hey I am down to the last row.. should i face nail it... will it look bad if I do that...
    should i use my brad nailer (1.25") or should i use my finish nailer (2.5 inch nails)
    my floor is only 5/16" the finish nailer will go all the way through the floor and through the subfloor and stick out through the basement.... I think i can get shorter nails for the finish nailer.. should i do that?

    EDIT: I just looked.. my finish nailer are 16 guage nails and it can do 1" to 2.5"
    should I go buy like 1.5 inch nails?
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2010
  9. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Sixteen gauge is a nice sturdy nail. The rule-of-thumb is to use a fastener no longer than the total thickness of the flooring and substrate. I have used longer fasteners though. 1½" length should be fine for what you are doing. However, you might want to get a good construction adhesive and use that instead of nails. Then you won't have to fix a lot of nail holes.

    Glue and then weight the boards down by laying a piece of lumber over the flooring and rest some heavy weight on them - large buckets of paint, packages of roofing shingles or anything you can find heavy enough to make sure the material doesn't come above the plane of the finished floor.

    That thin of material is not something I would trust not to warp from the moisture in the adhesive. You might also secure the edge nearest the wall with fasteners, as long as they will be covered by base. In fact, if it's just one row and all others have been nailed, you shouldn't need any other weight. The tongue or the preceding row and the nail to be hidden by base will be enough to hold the material in the adhesive.

  10. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Use a urethane adhesive and then there will be no moisture to worry about warping the thin 5/16 wood. Even PL urethane should do it.
  11. panaman

    panaman Member

    i ended up just nailing them with my finish nailer. I bought 1.5 inch nails.... i didn't put alot in.... like 3 in a 3foot long board.. but it seems real sturdy..... my floor is dark.. i thought about just getting a brown sharpy and just color the nail heads.....does that sound stupid?
  12. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    The nails should be slightly counter-sunk. They make "crayons" especially for situations like this. Rub it over the hole and then wipe up the residue with a clean cloth rag. There's also some that have to be melted in, which are better, but you'd have to buy an expensive kit. The crayon will work, but it's not the kiddie kind of crayon. You'll have to get one at a flooring supply store or ask at a real flooring store.

  13. panaman

    panaman Member

    yeah they are slightly counter sunk..... I wonder if lumber liquidators would have that crayon you are talking about.... thats where I bought the flooring.
    I still got alot of work ahead of me house is kinda old... 1957
    I gutted this bedroom down to studs and insulated the walls, re-wired it. Added a recessed light and closet lights... switches, cable, cat5, etc, etc..... my wife is getting on my back because she hasnt had a closet for 2 months to put her cloths in :) It is amazing how much crap cost these days...I got about 2000 bucks invested in this room... (not including the flooring) and I did the work myself... and its just walls, wires and trim.. lol...
    Today I spend the entire day painting trim outside in the driveway......
    All i got left to do is install all the baseboard trim and casings, closet doors and well paint the closet doors and the entry door.... i can start to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
    man am I beat.....
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2010
  14. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member Senior Member

    I try to hide my nail placement in the grain, or in a color change whenever I can. A small knot is even better. Doing the way you did is fine, as long as you, or your customer is not put off by visible holes. I can't remember now, if this spline was for starting a job out in the middle of a room, or if you are talking about the nails you finished a row with???

    Either way, I would fill the holes with putty.

    For me, not to contradict anyone else's opinion, but spline in a scenario, where I want to start in the middle of a room, for what ever reason, is only there to keep the groove to groove starter boards flat, while I affix them to the floor. I don't need it for structural strength, the glue, nails in the tongue on both sides, and the few I've fired through the spline take care of that. That spline could crumble to dust in 2 weeks for all I care, those rows aren't going to move because of it. Just my two cents...
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2010
  15. panaman

    panaman Member

    the spline in my original post is for when i continue in the hallway from the bedroom door way.. probably wont be for another month before I get to that point though.
    the face nailing is where i finished the last two rows because my flooring stapler wouldn't fit. by the way...
    This is my house.. I consider myself just a do-it yourselfer kinda guy. I have a huge ego and am not afraid to tackle anything...... I figure if someone in this world has done it before, so can I!
    I am still so happy i bought a stapler with dual triggers.... my wrist thanks me for buying it.
  16. Nick Arrera

    Nick Arrera Traitor

    HD has the putty you need to fill the holes in little jars For around $2.50 they also have ink markers .
    Save it for last as once you open the jar it seems to cure real fast in the jar .
  17. panaman

    panaman Member

    Well the master bedroom is all done....
    I finally got some pictures..... I think it looks pretty good for my first wood flooring install...

    Here is a picture of a few rows in

    This is me hard at work

    Me again... man I am handsome

    Picture in front of my wifes closet

    Picture in front of my closet
  18. hookknife

    hookknife Hard Surface Installer Charter Member Senior Member

    looks very nice! Pic#3-you cant have a beer until the job is complete, you broke the rules;)
  19. panaman

    panaman Member

    My rule is to only have a beer while I am doing home improvements

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.