LAMINATE - how to install around perimeter hydronic baseboard heaters

Discussion in 'Hardwood and Laminates Q&A' started by wasterkrak, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. wasterkrak

    wasterkrak New Member

    Hi. I am trying to find out find out the best/correct way to install laminate flooring in a room that has hydronic baseboard heaters surrounding 3 of the wall walls. (see picture attached). It is my intention to start the flooring on (Wall "A" ) that does not have baseboard heaters. i have done research/found articles on how to install the last row of laminate underneath a baseboard heater - which requires shaving off the locking mechanism of the laminate and gluing the last row. (Wall D)

    My problem is trying to find out the correct way to install the laminate underneath the heating elements on walls "b" and "c" without compromising the locking mechanism of the PERGO Max flooring.

    Please let me know if the following installation would be acceptable -
    (1)After laying down the first row, I would lay down the the first panel of the second row laminate (see "1" below) in front of the baseboard heating element after removing the baseboard cover, then locking it into the first row, then use a tapping block to slide panel "1" underneath the heating element and leave a 1/4-3/8" perimeter gap.
    (2) I would then continue to install the 2nd row of panels.
    (3) when i get to the 2nd to last panel of row 2 -i will determine the distance between wall c and beginning of panel "2". I would then cut panel "3" to the correct size intending to leave 1/4-3/8' perimeter gap. I would then install panel 3 in front of the heating elements and tap/slide it underneath the baseboard up against wall. I would then install panel "2". I would then use a pull bar to slide panel 3 back against panel 2 - leaving the 1/4 gap perimeter gap.

    Let me know if the tapping/sliding of the panels into position underneath the heating elements will compromise the locking mechanism of the laminate.

    or if you have better idea on how to install?

    thank you.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Pergo MAX install instructions specifically state "Do not tap the short side (end joint)" so you would need to remove the lock on what you are calling plank 3 and use a couple dabs of glue to hold this joint together when you finish each row by tapping with a pull bar.
     
  3. wood butcher

    wood butcher Charter Member

    I just did a job like this with Lowe's Pergo max.

    For pergo max. You can either fold or knock the long edges closed. End joins are closed by dropping the board down, sliding the board in or shaving, gluing and tapping.

    Pergo Max doesn't allow for knocking together of end joints it recommends either sliding the end joint (header) closed then knocking the long line together or adapting the header joint to a glue type joint.

    The last line may be difficult to close (you won't need to alter it and glue it), as you will need to get a pull bar under the radiator and into the gap. Unless you have a unifix tool ($100).

    I am not a big fan of pergo's header joints. If its not too late a uniclic (mohawk, columbia, quickstep)floor would allow you to knock all the joints closed flat under anything without altering the joint and gluing.

    Heres how I would do it. This only applies to Pergo or Uniclic flooring

    I would start at the opposite wall from you, under the radiator on wall D. Measure back from your finish wall A and strike a line to work to.

    Your going to be doing a lot of knocking so blocking with spacers is essential. You may need to fabricate L shaped pieces out of the scraps of laminate to slide under the fins of the radiator and twist and block the expansion space.

    You won't need to block the end of each line but you will need blocks along wall D.


    The 1st 2 lines can be built short, not under the radiator, then sliped under. Starting from left to right the 1st line should end with a board that is longer than the end board in line 2.

    assemble the 1st 2 lines leaving out the end boards off each line. Slide the assembly under the rad to the left, near to and parallel but not under to the starting rad. The last board of the 1st line might lift enough to be fitted without knocking it (you can also slightly lift line 2).

    The end board of the 2nd line can now be fitted by sliding the header together.
    Now the whole assembly can be slid under the starting rad and tight to the wall. The long joint of the 2nd line board can be closed with a knocking block. If knocking causes the 1st line to separate, don't worry because Pergo knocks together it can knock apart to without damage. You can drag the whole assembly out again and close the opening joint or you can use your blocks strategically to support where you are knocking.

    For the 3rd and subsequent lines it is easier to start with shorter boards than longer boards. Very short boards can be folded down and knocked into position or slid into position then knocked closed without putting too much stress on the assembled floor.
    Longer boards need more force to close or move into place. Once 3 or 4 lines are complete I would check the gaps on the start wall and make sure it at least every other board was blocked.

    I found I could block the floor by using my pull bar. I would wrestle it into the gap at a space where there are no fins, move it to where its needed then twist it sideways. Hold it with your knocking block while you knock the joint closed.
     
  4. wasterkrak

    wasterkrak New Member

    Thank you for quick responses. Very appreciative
     
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