How to Attach Transition Strip Over Carpet on Concrete

Discussion in 'Carpet Q&A' started by mydogsmom, Feb 23, 2012.

  1. polestretch

    polestretch Senior Member

    Look at that first picture.:eek: That carpet needs to be fastened or it will continue to pull out of whatever is put on top. this needs a professional, unless she can nail concrete tackless!
  2. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    And I repeat, if you have a 4" threshold, pull and secure the carpet edge beneath with something topical, who cares if it's a gunk of glue, cover the raw edges with the threshold, you are good. Don't you think?

  3. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    No way. You can't "secure" a wooden threshold to an unstable material like carpet. And what about that part of the carpet that is beyond the edge of the doorway and the carpet that is fraying along the wall next to the doorway. There are other spots we haven't seen pictures of. I don't think this is a DIY project at all.

  4. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    You misunderstood me. I'm not suggesting to secure the threshold to the carpet whatsoever. Nooo, recommending to apply it between the gap from one flooring application to another.

  5. polestretch

    polestretch Senior Member

    Sorry, I don't see how a home owner could do that themselves. To look half decent, you would need to pull up the transition that's there and take your wooden threshold and run it through a table saw to make it a good transition. Then fasten the carpet with tack strip up to that.
    If your looking at just throwing a 4 inch wooden threshold on top of everything that there.....:eek: That would look awful, and stick up way to high. It should be handled by a professional that knows what they are doing.
    Would you really put a threshold next to the wall where the cat destroyed the carpet?:( That needs to be patched in with carpet.
  6. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    Hey Pole, you need to update us on your trip to Haiti!
  7. polestretch

    polestretch Senior Member

    You had to remind me, didn't ya! Not the greatest at getting pictures from a flashdrive, downsizing them, posting them without the wrath of the big guy!:eek: Maybe this weekend. I need my kid home to walk me through it or I'll be in the doghouse, and probably banned!:yesss:
  8. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    I concede ... missed the third picture with the frayed carpet next to the wall. If it were only in the transitional area, however, I stand behind securing the carpet edges and using a wide, wooden threshold. The picture attached isn't the best example, due to the the raw edges extending past the doorframe, but something like that would work. In the transitional area. A professional patch job is definitely required along the wall. My bad, sorry.


    Attached Files:

  9. Nate Hall

    Nate Hall Types With Elbows Senior Member Published

    In older homes they put thresholds in ALL doorways. I have them in my house (it just came that way) which was built in 1899!
  10. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    Yeah, am used to them as well, always lived in very old homes (built between 1850 and 1914) until just the past 10 years or so.

  11. nimrod

    nimrod Pro Member

    thats true, but if they look so nice why do the customers always ask us if we can remove them??:rolleyes:
  12. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    Probably because SOME of them were those big, burly, severe speed-bump things. There are other options. Although, even some of the standard wood transitions this days are bulky, I'll admit.

    Still giggling about a construction company owner I measured for the other day who is replacing cut-pile commercial in the common areas of an office building, butting up to the same type product in the offices and all distressed about why I wouldn't use transition strips in the doorways. He doesn't want open seams in the doorways. He had such a hard time believing me when told that there were seams in every single one of those doorways now!:confused: He thought the entire area was one giant piece of carpet, hundreds of feet wide?

    I always make a best effort to avoid transitions if at all possible, or keep them minimal. In the original poster's situation, it appears a wide one would be best, though. It amazes me the elderly ladies that still insist on wide metal as a "mop-stop".

  13. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Putting wood thresholds in would blow their budget for the job.
  14. R.K

    R.K Pro Member

    That hole next to the wall will be a miserable repair. You'll be chasing bumps everywhere next to a doorway like that. That carpet's toast. Replace and don't rent to people with pets or this is what you'll get. Just make sure they replace those old tired sticks in front of the doors with new ones and throw some seam sealer in the gully.
  15. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    This wide, solid wood full doorway width threshold would by first choice as well for the transitions.
  16. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    I'm thinking she returns those metals and buys the wide thresholds and has the carpet guy who's going to patch where the cat tore up roll all the work into a flat labor charge either hourly or based on a minimum charge, half a day's pay or whatever the norm is for that market.

    The budget isn't realistic if it doesn't match the time and material costs to at least fix the problem.

    It's not a $25-------45 minute DIY fix in my book.
  17. Jeff Short

    Jeff Short Veteran Flooring Retailer

    Since the carpet must be replaced eventually, it will definitely be cheaper to replace it now than it will be in four or five years. Given the condition of the material in the photos, I think that's really the more economical way to go in the long run.
  18. FlooringGirl

    FlooringGirl Senior Member

    I couldn't get anyone to drive there, let alone patch it, for $25. Maybe $125. Maybe you should explain how to DIY, perhaps that would help.


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