Help with Vinyl Floor Install

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by suseyb, Jan 15, 2020 at 8:03 AM.

  1. suseyb

    suseyb Grateful Member

    Hello!

    Y'all helped us so much when we installed our vinyl flooring last year. My husband does not want to do the upstairs, so we are getting estimates.

    It's about 1300 square foot on the second level of a two story house. We are having a SPC vinyl plank installed.

    I want to make sure that we are covering all of our bases. Do you see anything that needs to be added/subtracted to ensure a good install?

    Charges include:
    Deck
    Self-leveling
    Vinyl floor installation
    Materials (hardy board? Not sure about this)
    Baseboard removal and install
    Trash haul

    Thanks!

    Susie
     
  2. Jonathan Garcia

    Jonathan Garcia Pro Member

    Don't forget to get the appropriate transition pieces, if it's on the 2nd floor then your going to possibly need a stair nosing to finish at stairs.
    I don't understand the Deck part of your charges? Am I missing something?
    Also why hardy board?
     
  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Currently carpet?

    No to Hardiboard, someone had to inspect subfloor/substrate to determine additional support, smoothness, or flatness.
     
  4. suseyb

    suseyb Grateful Member

    Yes, thank you! We do need stair nosing.

    Under Deck, it says level joints, screwed where needs attention, screws and sand paper included. Does that help? It seems like this is more making the floor flat? I don't understand the hardy board either.
     
  5. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    The hardyboard is designed to take money from your pocket to theirs. Some foolish people believe that cement board is an acceptable substrate to install self leveler over on suspended wood frame construction while then ignoring all of the other requirements like lath, priming and what have you. Not only is this a waste of money and time, it will ultimately fail in regards to the fact that hardi backer is no more or less stable than the plywood it is installed to.
     
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  6. suseyb

    suseyb Grateful Member

    This is the best estimate that we have received so far. I'll talk to him about the hardy board. It sounds like I should ask him to use plywood instead. Is that right? I don't want the floor to fail, and I don't want to spend $ unnecessarily.
     
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  7. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain TFP Owner/Founder Administrator

    I'm not sure I would want to discuss the floor any further with someone who doesn't understand hardibacker is not a suitable underlayment for anything except ceramic tile - and then only if the SUBFLOOR (decks are outside a house) is rigid enough already. And self-leveling is used only in extreme cases of unevenness. You didn't post pictures, but in many cases, you should only need a plywood underlayment and some floor patching compound to flatten the floor.

    I hope you aren't shopping price on labor. You will get what you pay for. And sometimes even the installer that isn't the lowest price doesn't have all the skill and knowledge to do the job right.
     
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  8. suseyb

    suseyb Grateful Member

    Thanks Jim. You're right. I hadn't seen this hardbacker thing before, and this guy has done work for us before, so I wanted to check it out. Price is about the same for all estimates.
     
  9. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Mark, I called tech dept for a leveling project over hardwood, mind you the ball was rolling and I’m the labor/pro doing a site visit. So he said it’s not recommended and contacting all parties involved, why would I be put in this situation? Money wasn’t an object, homeowner had a helo pad on another home.
     
  10. Jonathan Garcia

    Jonathan Garcia Pro Member

    hardwood mike? is the subfloor plywood or hardwood? if its plywood 3/4 inch minimum T&G and their is no flex, ardex k-22 self leveler can be used, following its instructions to the letter.
     
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  11. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Old house with new built around this one for to avoid elevation changes on the water. Point being all products are put together and they should be compatible. K22 above grade only, this has crawlspace then slab on grade surrounding.


    So we need to know the subfloor, joist spacing, thickness, possibly a ply underlayment or thicker may be needed depending on movement/deflection etc. then you’re changing step height variation and could violate code.

    A specific flooring product will recommend minimum requirements as well.
     
  12. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    I would want to do virtually all the flatness repairs with corrections to the structural components (joists and beams) and then layers of plywood (subfloor and underlayment).

    Only on the very minor patching of seams and fasteners if required would I want to use cementitious underlayment (floor patch like Ardex Feather Finish or self-levelor)

    Odds are the average flooring store and average installer do not want to get down into the structural issues of correcting beams, joists and subfloor boards whether they be OSB or 3/4" tongue and groove.

    Isn't that the whole point of the floating systems? What I understand is anything glued down will require very high quality, near perfect substrate conditions whereas a "floater" just need flat and smooth (for a year or so after install)

    On commercial applications-------mostly on or above grade concrete------the trend is toward very heavy gauge, textured vinyl planks or tile. With the texture and thicker products it's just not needed to make the substrate perfect. You get away with a LOT without sacrificing either initial appearance or long term performance. Frankly, the 2MM smooth, shiny surface materials are kind of ridiculous to consider for commerical renovations considering how MOST are budgeted for time and costs.
     
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