Hardwood replacement tip

Discussion in 'Floorcovering Installation & Maintenance Tips' started by Kman, Jan 19, 2019.

  1. Kman

    Kman Tile Expert I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    Hello, all! Long time no see. :)

    Had a call to replace some solid wood flooring due to water damage. The water had run across the living room and entry, damaging about half the room, around 160 feet total. Typically, the insurance company would write off the whole room for a five year old floor, but in this case they decided that the rest of the floor was fine and only the damaged part needed to be replaced.

    So they cut across the floor and left it as is, telling the customer to get whomever they wanted to replace it. It wouldn't have been a problem if they cut with the lay of the wood, but this was against it.

    So the first task was to remove all the cut pieces back into the floor to the next joints. What I thought would take all day ended up taking about three hours. I cut every board twice lengthwise so now each board is in three pieces. The center piece lifted right out, which then allowed the grooved part to slide out. The tongue side took more effort, but not too bad. This was all nailed in, by the way.

    So some of these pieces I cut out were three feet long or more, and my concern was getting the new wood slid into place. I knew they would be a tight fit, and very difficult on the longer pieces. So I got a box of paraffin wax from the local hardware store, and used a brick of it to wax down the side of the new boards, as well as the old ones on the floor.

    Let me tell you, I could almost slide them in with one finger in some cases. In any case, they all went in with minimal effort, and saved a lot of hammer swinging and block banging.

    Maybe this is common knowledge amongst the regular wood floor installers, but I'd like to think I was the first one to ever think of it. If I'm not, don't burst my bubble. :D

    Happy trails!
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  2. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Excellent tip, Kevin, thanks. I had a situation once where I had to replace only a few boards in a doorway before adding all new wood to the adjoining room. I used a bar of soap to do pretty much the same thing you did. I wish I could say my removal was as easy as yours though. I made a mess of it and damaged a good board, so I had to replace one board I shouldn't have had to if I had been more careful. But that was many, many years ago, so, water... I mean wood under the bridge. :D
  3. JayP

    JayP Pro Member

    Thanks for sharing that I’m sure I’ll use that at some point.
  4. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    A spray can of dry silicone works great.
  5. Kman

    Kman Tile Expert I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    Someone else suggested silicone, but I was worried about staining the raw wood on the edges, and the stain showing from the face. I guess it doesn't work that way? Never used dry silicone for anything.
  6. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    Dry silicone makes things real slick

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