Getting ready to lay glue down luxury vinyl plank, does my plan look good?

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by JedT, Apr 19, 2018.

  1. JedT

    JedT New Member

    I'm adding 1800 feet of Mannington Adura Dockside Driftwood to my home and after weighing the pros and cons and seeing a few floating Mannington LVP floors with lots of puckering in online forums I've decided to go for the glue down option vs the locking tile option. It's a large run and I don't have confidence the floor won't start to pucker after a decade of use without laying expansion joint t-moldings across every doorway and breaking apart the larger runs in the more open areas of the house. Half of the house is 5/16" old and weathered oak hardwood floor and half of the house is particle board.

    Here's my plan:

    1) Remove existing carpet and use a drum floor sander to sand down high spots in the old hardwood floor (there's a bit of puckering in some areas I'm guessing due to water damage)

    2) There's plenty of squeaking going on in the hardwood floors so I plan on putting a bunch of staples in which will hopefully help.

    3) Remove the existing particle board subfloor in the other half of the house and replace with 1/4" (.196 actual) Home Depot plywood underlayment using 1/4" crown staples. I will not be adding joint compound to the underlayment but will place a staple staggered every inch at the seams. Note, there is a small room on above grade slab where I will glue the underlayment directly to the slab, and the rest is diagonal plank subfloor.

    3b) The kitchen has old sheet vinyl under some crappy laminate. It was installed around 1980 and I'm just going to assume it contains asbestos. For this, I plan on creating a plastic drop cloth "tunnel" going from the kitchen to outside, wearing a good respirator and cutting the vinyl down the particle board seams using a sharp razor knife with a helper spraying the cut down with water as I go & then removing the vinyl and particle board together in whole sheets before vacuuming the entire area with a good hepa filter equipped vacuum.

    4) After letting the LVP acclimate for 48 hours in 75 degree temperature, I will lay the planks starting in the hardwood subfloor area first using a high quality pressure sensitive adhesive (not sure if its worth saving a few bucks to get an alternative equivalent to the Mannington MT-711) and a 100 lb floor roller. I will place T-moldings between the hardwood and plywood transition given the 1/8" height difference and also entering the bathrooms where it transitions to tile / sheet vinyl and end moldings at the sliding & entryway doors. Note, it doesn't look like I need to place the 1/4" expansion space around the perimeter with glue down, is this correct?

    Can you confirm my plan sounds good? Am I missing anything or any helpful tips you would like to suggest? Thanks in advance!
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2018
  2. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    Home Depot around here doesn't carry premium underlayment grade plywood. I'd recommend you use Halex or something of equivalent quality. Double and triple check the quality of the underlayment you buy. Ask around if there's a floor covering SUPPLY HOUSE------they don't sell tile, carpet, vinyl and such. They sell tools, equipment and sundries to the installers. Asking anyone at Home Depot or Lowes about professional aspects of the construction industry is a very foolish concept. They rarely even know where it is, let alone what it's for. But they're under pressure to be helpful so they'll tell you SOMETHING so they can move on to servicing the next customer walking down the aisle.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. JedT

    JedT New Member

    Thanks for the tip! Thats why I specified Home Depot so you could give me a better recommendation. Been reading a bit about luan and thats what it sounds like.

    Am I missing anything else? Ready to get started but want to make sure all my bases are covered as a first time floor DIYer.

    Found an old 100 lb floor roller on CL and was able to make it look like new with an hour on a bench grinder and a couple coats of spray paint.

    00L0L_3yD96Wa3qL0_1200x900.jpg 20180421_090028.jpg
  4. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Don't drop it on your toe- the nail will turn black.


  5. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    Instead of a drum sander I would use the 3 pad rotary sander rental from HD or Lowes, it will create a flatter plane.

    5/16” thick hardwood? Remove?

    I’ve never heard glueing underlayment to slab, hardwood though, maybe because the large sheets would buckle.

    What size trowel is recommended? You’ll need a few, they wear down as you go, maybe not on wood as much. I’d probably trowel then backroll with a 3/8” full of glue then knock down the ridgelines.

    I don’t believe it needs expansion gap but I’ve seen gluedown that says it does.

    I’d probably document the exact width and length accurately in case the stuff wants to excessively shrink, may be rare but play safe.

    You can chalk a line, then use masking tape and cover just over edge of chalk line with width of tape in non glueing area. Spread adhesive with slight overlap onto tape and however wide the rows you want to lay. Then peel the tape and it allows a clean line. There won’t be dried adhesive on the other side when you go glue which could raise the plank slightly.
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2018
  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    What did you pay for Roller?

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