Getting ready to install Konecto Sierra - Several questions!

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by ranger481vs, Jun 29, 2010.

  1. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Hi, New member here! This is a great site.

    I have been reading up on a lot of posts here in preparation for installing Konecto Sierra plank flooring. I am installing the flooring in 5 connected areas. See enclosed PDF file for floor layout. I'll need to remove the existing carpet and linoleum that's currently on these floors. I have few questions that I'll list below.

    1. I just bought this home and it was custom-built in 1976. I am assuming the kitchen/dining room have the original sheet linoleum (not positive though. My concern here is whether I have the potential for asbestos issues. Any opinions on this? Can I remove it myself or do I need to have a pro do it? I enclosed a couple of pics of the actual linoleum I am talking about. I cut out a small section just to see what it looked too.

    2. I uploaded a PDF file that shows the floor layout where I will install the flooring. Does it make sense to lay the flooring in the direction as shown in the PDF?

    3. When prep the subfloor, making sure that it's level, no nails sticking out etc, do I need to do something with the seams in the subfloor. I believe I have OSB, but will have to double-check that to be sure.

    4. How do I deal with the laying floor around the brick fireplace? Currently, it does not have quarter round trim, so it would it be best to add that in order to hide/protect the edges of the plank flooring? Or is there something better?

    5. I've read up on the install procedures, and will make sure to acclimate the flooring, install at proper temps, 1/8" gaps, and roll, roll, roll roll. My one concern is how to make sure I lay the floor straight as well as how to determine if my walls are true in order to lay the floor straight. Just haven't been able to find a good step-by-step on how to do this.

    6. I am wondering whether I can install the flooring in the sections of the kitchen where the fridge and stove will be? Is that unwise to do based expansion/contraction reasons, or is it still okay to have flooring underneath these appliances?

    I think that's all for now.:eek:

    Thanks for any help!


    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 29, 2010
  2. Gary Ebdon

    Gary Ebdon Pro Member

    Hi Matt, I've installed a bit of this stuff, over here it's called Allure, but I've seen pics & checked the manufacturers website & it's the same gear.

    1. Konecto is a floating system. That old vinyl can stay right where it is mate. One of the big advantages of a floating vinyl plank. By the looks of it, it could be asbestos backed (don't quote me on that), I dunno how you guys deal with it over there, but we let sleeping dogs lie if we can.

    2. Yes indeed, along the length is always best with planks.

    3.Just knock the nails down, if your sub floor was good enough for vinyl, it should be fine for this stuff

    4. Yes, it would be best to put a trim around a brick pedestal, in my humble opinion. Just make sure it's not right down on the plank, so it can expand/contract happily.

    5.I always use a laser square or a laser straightedge. Cheap enough and it will save a lot of messing around. If I were doing this job, I would shoot a line from the end of the living room, right up the hallway. Then take measurements off every wall to see how square your rooms are. Unless you have major alignment issues elsewhere, I would probably make sure it's straight down the hall. The other spot is that long wall in the living room. If they aren't in agreement, affect the best compromise. DO NOT BEND THE FIELD!!! Try to make sure you avoid thin fills down long walls, they can really be a visual problem if they taper. Take the time to calculate your initial line carefully, once you commit, that's it! We do cheat sometimes on long runs like this job has & put some PS glue down the line to stop it skewing while we set it out.
    6. No reason why not IMHO mate, we've got big temp changes here in Queensland & we've never had a problem.
    I've gone out on consultancy for this product plenty of times & helped the customer get going with it, take your time, check twice & cut once. Any more questions, just ask. All the best mate!
  3. Gary Ebdon

    Gary Ebdon Pro Member


    Absolutely don't forget to acclimate the product! 48 hours to be absolutely sure.
  4. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Thanks for the reply. My concern with going over the linoleum is that it's only in the kitchen/dining area. The other floors are carpeted. So, when I remove the carpet, there will be a floor level issue if the linoleum stays put. How would I deal with that? Is the solution difficult or costly?

    I may have to get the linoleum tested to confirm if there is asbestos or not. I would love to be able to remove it and just be able to lay the Konecto directly over the subfloor everywhere.
  5. Barry Carlton

    Barry Carlton I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    Those 3 doorways should not be an issue if it is just one thin layer of Vinyl. You will need to "float" or taper it out with a floor patch. a 16 inch trowel should do it just fine.

    Give attention to floor prep. This is a good product and it is floating, but it does weigh enough to still telegraph irregularities (joints in the subfloor, loose or swollen strands and such).

    Also, see if you can order some splines. That way you could start in the hallway and work both directions.

    Double faced tape works well to hold the first row straight and true. This was taught by the installation tech. (although I can't figure out how this does not interfere with the floating aspect).

    I would undercut the fireplace with a masonry blade and slide the flooring under for a good clean look.
  6. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Thinking more about the possibility of the laying over the existing flooring, there are a few problems I would encounter. The vinyl is curling up in areas along the edges, and I'm also remodeling the kitchen with new cabinets and changing the cabinet layout from having a peninsula to having a freestanding island instead.

    I found a testing lab called Western Analytical that will test a sample for asbestos for $30. I think I will go ahead have the material tested so I know exactly whether I have an asbestos issue or not. Hopefully not!!!

    Thanks again for the comments and advice.
  7. Gary Ebdon

    Gary Ebdon Pro Member

    True all of that, splines are a great way to avoid the "slip it under" issue. Double faced tape is easier than PS, and undercutting the bricks is a very nice idea. All hail the Barry meister. In future I will wait until he's commented before saying anything :eek:
  8. Barry Carlton

    Barry Carlton I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    But then how will I learn anything new? For instance, I never considered a PSA. New thought for me!!
  9. Mike Sahli

    Mike Sahli Pro Member

    Barry Meister ? :confused: Has a good ring to it.:yesss:
  10. cproader

    cproader All over T's last nerve Senior Member

  11. tmac

    tmac Pro Member


    Expansion Zone is now 1/4" and roll the joints with a hand roller as you go.

    Attached Files:

  12. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Thanks for the installation PDFs. They will come in handy.

    Well, I just found out that the vinyl flooring I wanted to remove tested positive for asbestos (bottom layer contains 15% asbestos; type Chrysotile).

    I would like to reconsider going over this flooring instead of paying for a specialist to remove it, but the flooring is curling up in a lot of places along the edges. Not sure how to deal with that.

    As mentioned above, the other connecting rooms have carpet that will be removed, I'm still not clear on how hard it would be to apply a skim coat to the vinyl if I leave it and feather it down to the subfloor where the carpet used to be. Can that really be done where I would not even notice the transition after the Konnecto is installed over everything?

    The other issue I have is squeaky flooring under then vinyl. It would be easy to deal with that if I were removing the vinyl, but if I leave the vinyl, how do I go about finding and eliminating the squeaks?

    Sorry for all the rambling thoughts, but I'm really bummed about the asbestos results. I had the vinyl flooring in my 3 bathrooms tested, as well, and they all came back positive too. Ugh! I just bought this house in April, and man, it's got a lot of surprises. Didn't even think about asbestos when I first looked at the house... Live and learn...

    EDIT: After walking around in my kitchen, I forgot that I have a couple of areas in the vinyl that have depressions in them. Not really soft wood underneath or anything, but some kind ares under the vinyl that aren't level. One thought I had is maybe just laying down 1/8" plywood everywhere over the existing subfloor and the vinyl too. That way I would have a nice clean slate to work with for the Konnecto. Would cost a bit 'o money, but would seem to simplify things. I don't know... just brainstorming here... If laying down a new subfloor is a decent idea, what kind of material should I use?
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2010
  13. Sean Moore

    Sean Moore Pro Member

    1/8 subfloor is a "never ever" imo. 1/4 or thicker.

    And yeah, sealing that crap up is not a bad alternative. The danger is in removing it, not leaving it in place. Look up "friable" and "encapsulation" and you'll see what I mean.

    You can cut out a couple curling sections before you install your underlay on it. Wet the felt and the fibers don't become friable.

    Finding the squeaks? Get a stud finder that will read through your subfloor or use the "guess" method until you find one joist and then measure from there. Just screw straight through that stuff, I'm not aware of any warnings about piercing an asbestos floor, just sanding/scraping/peeling.

    The squeaks are simply a fastener rubbing on the subfloor they penetrate where the fastener has loosened from the joist (in most cases). When you get the subfloor refastened to the joist and smack down any resulting "pimples" you have fixed the problem. Use screws ;)

    The problem with "big A" floors comes from sanding/scraping/peeling them and making the bad stuff airborne. If you take care and seal it under some plywood it's not going to become airborne.
  14. zivatar

    zivatar Well-Known Member

    I am not a pro, and someone correct me if I am wrong, but I would suggest putting in new underlayment (such as ULAY or something like that) over everything. We are putting in new vinyl plank flooring and have decided to install new ULAY over the OSB--more than 750 sq. feet so it is going to be expensive, but we think it will be worth it in the long run. JMHO.
  15. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Wow!!:confused: I think I have installed just shy of 1.3 million yards of that stuff!! :eek:

    Do ya think I have a claim for mesothelioma? (HACK HACK, COUGH, COUGH) Or is it asbestosis?

    Anybody know a good shyster? :cool:

    Sorry, I meant counselor-at-law!:rolleyes:

    Now I have an excuse!!!!:cool:

    My wife was reminding me of my less endearing qualities the other day.

    I told her, "Wait a minute, I have crawled on the floor for forty years. Used numerous and sundry products, adhesives, sealers, and chemicals, all of which now are touted as causing cancer and destroying brain cells!"

    So I sat down and figured the amount of ingestion and absorbtion of said chemicals. Then I figured the weight of the average brain and the amount of brain cell loss from these chemicals. The result is that I have a brain the size of a pea rattling around in my skull.

    So I said, "Dear wife, you should consider yourself fortunate that I even remember your name, let alone that we have been together for over 40 years, and I still love you more now than forty years ago."

    By the way "What is my name?"
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2010
  16. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Oh, trust me, I'm aware of the propaganda regarding asbestos, which is why I don't care to pay anyone a crapload of money to remove it. But, I do have a 3yr old boy and a pregnant wife, so it's hard for me to not be extra cautious in what I do or not do with the vinyl. :blink: Hey, you should really get that cough checked out though. ;)
  17. ranger481vs

    ranger481vs Member

    Reposting my questions here on the 2nd page, so they don't get lost in the shuffle.

    I am going to assume that putting down a new underlayment is a good option for my situation, but if anyone has a different opinion on this I'd like to hear it. It seems like a good option because it will give me a good, clean flat surface to lay the Konecto on, and eliminate the inconsistencies and transition issues with the vinyl flooring.

    If I do proceed with this option, I have a few questions:

    1. I will use 1/4" material, but is there are specific type of plywood that I need to use, such as zivitar's ULAY suggestion, or can I just get normal ply from the lumber store? What about cork?

    2. Should I lay down any type of material between the current floor and the new underlayment, possibly to make the floor quieter, I guess? I think I read that someone put down roofing felt and then put the plywood over that.

    3. What rules do I need to follow to allow for expansion? 1/4" gap along the walls? What about the seams in the middle?

    4. What fasteners should I use? Glue (or not?) and ring shank screws?

    5. Since I will be raising the height of my floor by 1/4", how do I need to deal with the door thresholds? Really, I just need to be concerned with the front door and the sliding patio door that's in the dining area. The three doors at the end of the hallway lead to carpeted rooms, so they should be easy to deal with.

    And one more thing. Thanks for putting up with me and my flooring questions
  18. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I would be concerned with if you disturb any lead paint though. Kids and pregnent women is who it affects. I don't know the age of your house. My grandaughter had an issue with lead paint. Thank God it came out ok.

  19. tmac

    tmac Pro Member

    Use 1 1/4" Underlayment grade plywood such as Ultraply XL.

    Do not use roofing felt beneath the Konecto, they have a sound reducer underlayment.

    Maintain 1/4" expansion around all verticle objects and do not fasten moldings through the Konecto.

    Stagger end joints 6-8 inches.
  20. Gary Ebdon

    Gary Ebdon Pro Member

    OK, thanks Rog, now I know I have a brain the size of a pea, (explains a lot) and why my health is bad, HACK! COUGH! SPLUTTER!
    Listen, when you find yourself a shyster, er, lawyer, throw me his number would you? :cool:

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