Engineered Hardwood Between Multiple Rooms Advice

Discussion in 'Solid and Engineered Hardwood Q&A' started by Indywar, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. Indywar

    Indywar Member

    Hi,

    I know there are questions about installing hardwood flooring, but I have a couple of different situations.
    First, I am on a concrete slab, so I have chosen to float the flooring. I have chosen to install BR-111 Santos Mahagony engineered flooring (0.5" thick x 3" wide).

    Hopefully, the floor plan has uploaded. I will be installing the engineered flooring in the Dining room, kitchen, living room, foyer and down the hallway to the bedrooms. Last time I installed engineered, I started in the LR on the western most wall, but I had a couple of area (esp. in the middle of the room) where it seem like the boards were no longer square to the wall.

    So what is the best recommendation on where to start, how to keep the boards straight and especially going from room to room without transition strips (when I installed the previous floor I went from the LR to DR to kitchen w/o tranistion strips. However I had to install one in archway between LR & kitchen).

    Thanks for any advice.
    Rob
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2012
  2. SHconstruction

    SHconstruction General Building Contractor

    What Ive done in the past is to switch directions at doorways and also start in the middle of rooms and spline the boards and work outwards making sure to position myself to be able to tongue/groove into my threshold board. dont know if that makes sense to you. If you want all the flooring in the same direction just lay it all out and snap lines as you go to make sure you are staying straight to your layout. Its basically all in the layout, think it thru
     
  3. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain TFP Owner/Founder Administrator

    For the most part, what SH said is true, it is in the layout. With a floating, continuous layout installation, you don't have as many options to make adjustments as you go along. Start straight and stay straight. The easiest way for me to do that has been to start in the longest continuous, most conspicuous area. From your diagram, that looks like from the living room wall common with the kitchen, all the down to the end of the hallway. I am going to assume you want the boards to run in that direction, since you didn't say otherwise. It's the direction I would choose, if it were mine to make and wanted the flooring to have no transitions in doorways.

    1. Dry lay enough boards across the width of the hallway to see what the fill pieces will be on each side (keep in mind that you want the wood to stop directly under the center of the bathroom door) to determine the best starting row position.
    2. Extend that measurement the few inches it takes to find out what the measurement is from the the NW corner of the living room to that mark. Make another mark the exact same measurement from the NE corner of the living room to the SE side of the living room.
    3. You need 3 people for this step, one to hold one end of a chalk line on the mark you made near the kit/lvrm wall, another to take the other end of the chalk line down to the end of the hallway and one more to spot the line directly over (without touching the chalk line) the mark you made at the lvrm end of the hallway. When the line is tight and positioned perfectly, have the person at the lvrm/hall end snap the line to make one straight line from the far side of the living room to the far end of the hall (see my attached illustration).
    4. Glue and assemble 2 rows of boards the full length of that starting line. Keep it very straight, then let it dry. Now you have a starter row that is straight and true and strong enough to let you continue laying the material.

    Since you've done this before, you prob'ly already know to do all your prep beforehand, including undercutting your door jambs and casings and planning for any transitions at the doorways the hardwood stops and another flooring begins. Allow for the proper expansion at every vertical obstruction.

    It's been a while since I've done a real installation, so I hope I didn't leave something out. But that's the beauty of having so many other pros around - they will let you and I know if I screwed up somewhere. :D

    Jim
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Indywar

    Indywar Member

    Thanks guys for the advice. I do think some of my problem last time was planning the layout better.

    Regarding laying the flooring in opposite directions, I have read post to the forum about why you cannot just reverse direction without a spline when nailing down. Is there a reason that one could not reverse directions when floating the floor (e.g. installing boards from the tongue side moving to one wall, and installing off of the groove side also)?

    Thanks,
    Rob
     
  5. Canuck

    Canuck Pro Member

    Is it a "click" locking floor like laminate or does it just slide into place. If it's a "click" floor you don't need a spline (and couldn't add one anyways) you can install it from either side it's just a little easier the one way. If it's a "glue the tongue" type you really don't need a spline either as you can slide it in either way but you could add a spline if you find it easier to tap the boards in useing the tongue. For laminate they recomend a transition at every door way that is under 48" in width, you should find out what the manufacturer recomends for the product you are using.
     
  6. Indywar

    Indywar Member

    Thanks Canuck. I should have clarified that this is not click lock, but tongue and groove that slides together and is glued in the T&G.

    Rob
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.