Door pin puller

Discussion in 'Tools, Equipment and Supplies' started by Chris 45, Apr 3, 2019.

  1. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    What do you guys use to remove door pins? I’ve gotten by for the past 20 years using a couple different things. Usually a 5 in 1 and a hammer is sufficient but apparently today I bought one of these.

    Crain #362 Door Pin Tool

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  2. Barry Carlton

    Barry Carlton I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    When those first came out I thought they were ingenious....but over priced. So I went to Harbor Freight and bought a chisel for 1.00 and cut my own notch. Been using it for the past 30+ years.
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  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Yeah it’s way overpriced. You impulse buyer you(20 years delayed!)

    I got the one without the pin, then about 4 or 5 years later the pin one came out. I never got it assuming it would break. There’s some severely rusted pins sometimes.

    Pulled a bathroom door today, kinda rare now doing what we do but back in the day new construction every door came off and went into garage.

    So when I figure what works and what I like I then multiply it. Our posts about utility knives motivated me to order more, free shipping (75$)I had to throw in a few extra.

    A punch and the chipped tooth Crain getter done 4 me. If the Crain pin were lifetime warranty I’d get it. Like now I can bring my broken craftsman ratchets to Lowes for a replacement now they carry the brand. Ace does to I’m confused who will prevail.

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  4. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    What I use to remove doors, is ...

    My helper, I usually don’t touch doors.
    I had one of the original crane door pin puller’s (without the pin)
    I had it for probably 15 years and just lost it ,in the last year or so.

    I keep a small nail punch in my pouch that I use to start it (on the rare occasion I do have to pull a door )
    Then use my Crain molding lifter to remove it.
    I always place the pins back in the hinge on the door frame .
    I’ve had helpers put them in lots of odd places and have to search all over at the end of the day.
  5. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I’ve ruined a couple nail punches trying to get pins started and my 5 in 1 has slipped before. I put the pins back in the door or the jamb. I do it orderly so I won’t ever get doors mixed up. First door the pin goes in the bottom hinge on the door and the other pins go in their corresponding hinges on the jamb. Next door the pin goes in the middle hinge. Third door it goes in the top. And so on... It’s just an old habit from back when I did new construction and, as mike said, all the doors get pulled at the same time and put in the garage. Gotta be logical about this kinda stuff. Prevents a major headache when you go to put all the doors back on. The pins are all exactly right where you need them to be exactly when you need them to be there and the order tells you where it goes.
  6. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    The wedge design doesn’t always work well when the pin is stuck. It wrecks the metal. I like to leave a gap when putting them back, I just hand press pin in place, but permanent leave 1/16-1/8” gap. I use to have a number pack for wiring during the novice days. Or label the top of door but tilting to look at was annoying.
  7. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Chris45, I do it just like you, but no door pin puller.
  8. Don Monfils

    Don Monfils PRO CARPET Charter Member

    We put a piece of masking tape on both sides of the top hinge. Then number the doors with a marker ( on the tape).
    We do the same with furniture...
    A piece of tape on the furniture and a piece on the wall , just match up the numbers when moving it back.
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  9. seamsealer

    seamsealer Pro Member

    I have the original without the push pin. I bought 2 small punches with long shafts to get the pins started sometimes. I was going to buy another one with the pin, but never did. I did mostly vinyl flooring, so there were never a bunch of doors to deal with, maybe a bath door or pantry door. Still got it and use it once in a while around the house.
  10. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    8 ft doors are another issue.
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  11. seamsealer

    seamsealer Pro Member

    Mike, we bought a new home here in Ormond and it has an 8 foot entry door, the top pin is out of reach, you would need something to stand on to get that one. The good part is the entry has about a 15 ceiling.
  12. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    After a lifetime of popping doors off their hinges with a 1" stiff blade putty knife and.......any thing sharp and pointy enough to get the pin up enough to get under it with the hammer and chisel I bought the Crain tool. I used it a couple times and it's not really going to get every door off better than what I was alrerady doing............COMMERCIAL doors only. That probably makes a difference. I don't generally carry the tool. It lives in the garage.
  13. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    I use mine on almost every job. I can’t imagine a more efficient tool that pretty much guarantees no damage.
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  14. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    I probably pull on average 10-15 doors per year.
  15. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    The one I got looks like a pair of sidecutters with a hole drilled in the cutting edge and sharpened. Just put it on the pin and squeeze and the pin raises up, then just tap it up with hammer but most times easily removed just pushing up. Pins go back into hinges. Here is a little trick I learned from a commercial carpenter. Always put the bottom hinge in first and start the pin. That makes it the fulcrum for tipping up the door and the rest of the hinges line right up.


  16. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member Senior Member

    Awl and a stairtool works for me. Anymore I use a painters 5 in one tool, use the point to tap up the pin and the chisel to push it out. Anymore that is my buy when I see them, use them all the time. painters 5 in 1 tool
  17. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I always put the top pin in first and monkey around with the others that aren’t line up right(center then bottom)
    Not saying your method is better Daris but gravity pulling down and maneuvering to line up both pieces of hinge is easier for me and I don’t torque/bend the bottom hinge as I let the door weight rest. Thought there was another door pin tool design of course you had it.

    I stand on a bucket for the high doors, sometimes it’s hard to find something and I’m not about to carry a ladder otherwise I’d need it to change out vent filters.

    On my house I did put the door back and lined the hinge one slot lower. The door didn’t close right the wife said(days later guest bedroom) There was a gap at top, obvious. Didn’t really delve into why I did that, not sure if hinge was upside down which part was on frame and which was on door, if there was two tabs on one side three on other I just want that part overwith and don’t dwell.
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
  18. seamsealer

    seamsealer Pro Member

    Yep, I did that too, top hinge helps keep the door in place for the next two hinges.
  19. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Attached Files:

  20. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    I'd say the pin is the essential part! Gets it started so you can use the fork without any damage. I'm guessing I take off an average of 500 doors a year with the thing and it's been going strong for ten years now.
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