Cork flooring installation

Discussion in 'Cork Flooring Q&A' started by Giampaolo, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. Giampaolo

    Giampaolo New Member

    I'm in the process of installing a 12"x36" cork floor boards, all the tutorial I watched show to start from a wall placing a 3/8" spacer, how do I prevent from having a small piece on the opposite side?
    Years ago I installed a hard wood floor tile 12"x12" and I started from the center, the end result was even pieces on both sides of the room
    Thanks guys
  2. This is going to sound nutty, but bear with me. If these must be installed staggered, like floating plank floors, so that your end joint seams don't meet each other from row to row, then it goes like this:

    1. Measure your room from the starting wall to the finishing wall.
    2. Subtract your 6/8" of spacer space.
    3. Divide the remaining distance by the width of your pieces.
    4. Take the remainder from that, and add it to your full plank width.
    5. Divide that number in two. This final number will be the width of your starting and ending rows.

    This process accomplishes two things. One is that you get balance from one side of the room to the other. The other is that you neither start nor end with a very narrow row. The smallest start and end rows will have to be at least half the width of a full piece. Having super narrow pieces looks kind of weird, and can be an issue functionally too.

    For example
    In your case, the width of a piece and one foot are the same thing, so if your room was 17' 3.75" across, you would lose the .75" for the spacers, divide by your 12", giving you 17 full rows plus a 3" remainder. You would then add the 3" to your full width, 12", giving you 15" to share between starting and ending rows. So you'd start with a 7 1/2" row, lay out 16 full width rows, and end with another 7 1/2" row, instead of leaving that difference to the end, and having one 3" wide row at the end of a field of full width rows.

    16 full width rows (16')
    plus two partial width rows (7 1/2" X 2 = 15" [1' 3"])
    totaling 17' 3", and leaving your two expansion gaps

    Odd width example
    If you'd instead had something like 5" wide planks, then you would divide my hypothetical 207" run of the room (already minus the spacers) by 5", rather than by whole feet, giving you 41 full width rows of 5" planks, plus an extra 2" needed to cover fully the room. Instead of giving yourself a final row only 2" wide, you would add that to the 5" width of a full plank, and divide the 7" by two. So you'd start with a 3 1/2" row, and end with a 3 1/2" row assuming a perfectly square room. 40 full width rows (200") plus a 3 1/2" row at each end (7" more, filling the room).

    I hope that helps! Let me know if I've entirely misread you though.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
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  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Too much math for me, are you talking about the width or length? The width(12") you split the room in half. Since it's 12" pieces you can measure to wall. If the board is less than half width at walls, you shift the center half width (6") over. Your wall boards will now be the first layout width(less than six inches) + 6". So if your original measurement was 8 ft 3", you don't want 3" piece, you shift line six inches and your new board width is 9" wide on each side.

    The ends are another trick about a dead zone on one side you don't have an end joint so when you get to other end the board length is more than say 8". I can't explain that one. It involves layout of boards from end to beginning, then two lines would be drawn perpendicular that the board end of the first piece would not be in that section. Of course this is one room, if product goes into other rooms, it's fall as they may.
  4. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I check measurements on everything in the room that there will be a cut for from the start side. I make a story board, like 7,14,21,28 ect, of the width that you have. Then I can see where the joints will hit. Just adjust as you see you need to.
  5. More of A Researcher has it...measure the whole thing. Remove the 2 x 3/8" spacers (one on either wall). The divide by the width of the planks (12" is the width of these planks). That gives you how many runs you have. Normally we like to see at least 4" width of plank on the start/finish run. That's the number you want to beat. To achieve that on your LAST run, means you you may have to RIP your FIRST run...

    You have to work backwards to get it to work. That's part of the saying: "Measure twice; cut once".

    And chalk lines help if you have a cork pattern that is stripy...(ribbon patterns or block patterns will show off wonky walls or weird angles). A swirly pattern or the granulated patterns won't do they aren't as critical with their plank placements.
  6. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    But some jobs have more cut points inbetween the two outside walls. Like that hallway down the middle or a cabinet. Need to adjust for those.

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