Carpet on wall...way up!

Discussion in 'Carpet Sales and Installations' started by TwoStar, Sep 9, 2013.

  1. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    I am taking on a project where part of it is to reinstall some sounddeadening-type carpet(real thin stuff) back up on the top half of a school gymnasium after a storm damaged the walls. Now they need the carpet back up. It is sheetrock. It is about 8 feet up to the bottom of the section to be carpeted. It is about 35 feet long. Any ideas about the procedure to get this stuff up, glued, rolled? One problem is that it is the original stuff, so no room for error at the seams.

    Attached Files:

  2. Jvan

    Jvan Pro Member

    Two sheetrock buckets and a 2x10 for a walkboard for you and your helper. Havent done much wall carpet but I always work from top down. Gravity is a funny thing.

    Figure in some sort of wide trim at the outer edges to allow for retrimming the used carpet at seams. Four inch each side or maybe six. Sounds like a mess so good luck :)

    edit..if you got windows like that to go around thats going to make it really tough, nothing to trim for seams unless you piece in around them. Why are they using old carpet? Especially since its such a small section?
  3. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    The ones I did were about 12 feet off the floor. We used scaffolding. It was a lightweight corduroy type product [needle punch]. Troweled it on with a lot of plastic underneath. Tried paint rollers but it didn't work. Could try spray glue :hu: at least to start it. You don't say how wide the sheets are. We worked with 12 foot goods.
    Did a sky light area in a bank once that was much higher with scaffolding also.


  4. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    The pieces are at most about 6 feet wide. The windows are already cut out, the corner is already figured in, the seams are cut for me:)eek:).
  5. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    It matches the rest of the gym that wasn't damaged.
  6. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    What sort of price for this sort of thing? How many hours would you estimate?
  7. Thomas Stanfield

    Thomas Stanfield Pro Member

    if you have away to anchor strip install arch tectual strip at top and glued 4 ft from bottom .Is how I did a movie theater about 10 yrs ago .it had block walls kept sucking up the glue
  8. Jvan

    Jvan Pro Member

    I'm always up for a challenge but sometimes you just have to say to no...Or offer them them a nice deal in SEAM metal.

    My general rule on installing used carpet is 2x base rate and no guarantee.:facepalm:
  9. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    Don't do anything foolish for footing, make sure your on stable scaffolding or whatever you decide to elevate yourself on.
    When we did the rink, only 4' high it was relatively easier than thought , we used premium glue for regular gluedown carpet with some weight to it with 0 issues.
    Use the roller with extendable handles. Know what set time you need for glueing that it doesn't skin over by the time your ready to place into adhesive, maybe test a spot to see bond strength as far as what finish was on drywall(paint, joint compound).
    Some mechanical fasteners up top goes a long way for insurance.
  10. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    You may be able to rig a roller up like an 8 fort pole and roll it from the ground as long as pole and roller are stout and depending on manpower.
    Definitely double $ plus add time for rigging scaffold/ walkboards.
  11. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member

    Have you considered a pressure sensitive adhesive?
    Paint it on, let it flash, and start installing your pieces at the seams first, and rollering the field from there using a toothed tractor to 'set' the product into the PSA, little by little.

    With a PSA, if you need to peel it back here and there to make minor adjustments, it should be relatively easy.

    If you're short, like me, then an extra two feet from a board-on-a-bucket won't get you to the 8' top, comfortably.
    Know any painters that would lend you their stilts?
    If you have a helper, you can work in tandem, one high, one low...?
  12. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    I think I was not clear...the work is to be done from 8 feet to about 16 feet up. I was thinking of one of those small lifts that get wheeled around. It would be safer and speed up the process so glue wouldn't flash quicker than I could move...right?

    I always say that I lay carpet and don't roof houses because you can't fall off a floor...I'm not a real 3-dimensional kinda guy, y' know?
  13. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member

    That's exactly why i suggested PSA, you can let it flash all day long, it won't hurt.
    You can get to it when you get to it.
    Hurrying at anything at that height is worrying, at best.
  14. TwoStar

    TwoStar Maybe Three

    PSA won't dry up over time? I know it stays good when not in the air, but how about under a thin carpet?
  15. Ed

    Ed Charter Member

    I used psa on the walls in a portable x-ray trailer. It failed after a few weeks. I removed and replaced the entire job. A bubble would come up and you could push it down and it would stick, for awhile, then reappear. A glue rep recommended the psa but played dumb when it failed. Great for floors, not so great for walls.
  16. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member

    I dunno 'bout the last two posts, I'm sure some PSAs will fail on a wall or when exposed to air.

    But all of them...:hu:

    I can name a time when just about every adhesive I've ever used has failed once.
    -Doesn't automatically make that type of adhesive bad.

    And thankfully, PSAs have changed a lot over the years.
    Trial and error, much like automobiles...

    the Ford Taurus was a fail - so don't buy Fords?
  17. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I would say no to many psa's. they need pressure the more pressure the better the set, the gravity is trying to pull carpet away.
    An electric scissor lift sounds appropriate, some are a little tight, a bigger one to move around on may be worth the upgrade.
  18. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member

    Just riffin' here, but how 'bout a combination of PSA and wood staples into the studs?
  19. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Maybe the confusion about the use of PSA is because some are forgetting what that stands for: Pressure Sensitive Adhesive. If the carpet is on a wall, there is NO pressure against the adhesive.

    I put carpet on walls a few time. I just used a good quality carpet glue, a large notched trowel and the top edge of the carpet was a wood trim nailed to the wall through the carpet. I smoothed the carpet into the adhesive with a push broom - pulling of course, not pushing.

  20. Hanover Fist

    Hanover Fist Pro Member


    And here I feel like a fool...
    For years I was using a seam tractor to apply pressure to carpet and seam tape.
    Silly me...
    ...all those jobs, ruined...

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