Can I scuff and restain?

Discussion in 'Solid and Engineered Hardwood Q&A' started by Mike_C, Jan 11, 2020.

  1. Mike_C

    Mike_C New Member

    Hi, I just moved into a home with glued down engineered wood flooring throughout much of the house. I've been told it's likely cherry wood- and it certainly has a reddish hue to it! I've love to move to a darker color and try and drown out the red color as much as possible. Like a dark walnut or even espresso or combo of those two colors. Anyway, I've measured the vaneer as only 1mm (I found a piece in the garage.) Of course, everything I've researched thus far says to not even try sanding these babies. And I get it. With that, my question is, would it be possible to "scuff" the floor with a finer paper, like say a 100 grit on a drum sander, then attempt to re-stain over them? Would there be a gel stain that may handle this better? For I'm not as concerned about the surface scratching in the floors so I'm not trying to sand them out- and at that point I'd go right thru the vaneer anyway. Appreciate the help!
     

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  2. Mark Brown

    Mark Brown On The Surface Flooring I Support TFP

    You would be hard pressed to remove the finish off of the wood enough to stain it without severly compromising the veneer itself. I would strongly advise against it.
    They are designed as throw away products, much like everything else produced these days
     
    • Agree Agree x 4
  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti Senior Member

    I take things from a far point of view, then focus. You’re not going to remove the Urethane? red stain, then get to the wood fiber to absorb the dark color.

    What may be possible, and whomever that could perform it is a different issue.

    You have the scuff part right, that is for liquid to bond, for it to attach to. Followed by a dark stain combined with the Urethane as a topical coating.

    Drum sander? No and I’m not sure of exactly whether bristle, wheel rotating same direction vertical to get into the texture.

    Feasibility and cost?

    Typical would be ripup, use compatible adhesive and glue another wood of choice down.
     
  4. Steve Olson

    Steve Olson Hardwood/Laminate Guru Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Looks like Jatoba, aka, Brazilian Cherry? If so, that's a very hard wood, and if it has any kind of bevel edge, it will be near impossible to strip that edge. it's about 2400 0n the janka scale, oak runs 1250-1350, depending on species. I say either don't try it. I wouldn't do it.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    No way you can get down to bare wood on that sufficiently to "sand and refinish". What you are able to do on a surface like that is "screen and recoat" which will greatly improve the dull, scuffed up appearance without ever touching hardly any of the actual wood. This decision was made when the wood was purchased.

    If you try to get the finish off the best you could do with screen is to scratch off some of the finish layer on a few of the higher spots. Then when you apply stain those spots will stand out from the rest of the original stain and finish coat.

    Screen and recoat can be done by the average to higher skilled DIY. I'm an experienced flooring installer and I know just enough to realize that "sand and refinish" is not for DIYers IMHO.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. Floorguy

    Floorguy The Living Dead Charter Member Senior Member

    Nothing is impossible. Just be prepared to replace the floors, if it does not go as planned.
    1st thing to know... what type of finish is on the boards now.
     
  7. Floorguy

    Floorguy The Living Dead Charter Member Senior Member

    Clean and clean again, then clean again and Tykote....
     
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