Calling all Floor Pros, need creative solution.

Discussion in 'Hardwood & Laminate Sales and Installations' started by HetzelFlooring, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. I have an existing install of floating solid bamboo over concrete, I believe its 5/8" thick. The kitchen was recently remodeled and left a round floor vent exposed. This was previously run through the cabinet and out through the toekick. You will see by the picture the vent falls just under the edge of the cabinet. The homeowner bought a nice metal cover plate and would like to be inset into the bamboo flush with the surface.

    I'm looking for a creative way to get a clean and efficient cut. I would normally use a router and template jig but the cabinet is in the way. I thought about using an adjustable circle cutting jig on the drill but that also will be tough in the close quarters. The slow and tedious way is to use a chisel gouge that has a gradual curve and just work my way around about 1/4 inch deep.

    Has anyone come across this before? Since this is floating it will just be sitting 1/4 inch embedded into the bamboo so nothing will be fastened down. Any suggestions will be appreciated no matter how outlandish. I like a challenge so I would prefer not to just chisel this out for 2 hours with mediocre results. Thanks in advance.

    Attached Files:

  2. asevereid

    asevereid Adam the FNG

    Do they have any leftover flooring? Maybe you could template and cut the hole like you usually would, and then replace the piece with the new one?

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  3. That's a great idea, I'm surprised I didn't think about that option. I will call and check on leftover boards. I was in a rush so didn't take a great look but I would assume its a click together and not tongue and groove glued. I will have to check the layout and see how laced in it is but this is definitely going up to the top of my list. Thank You for the response.
  4. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    "If" you can get a hole saw the exact size you can put piece of plywood over top to use as jig due to no center hole to start drill bit, then drill 1/8" depth for a clean edge lip.

    I can't see width of plate, the box stores have various sizes of hole saws, and then there's sizes for recessed lighting. Then the smaller size to drill through for the ducting lip.

    Slipping and damaging flooring is priority, I like adjustable speed oscillating tools to minimize heat and control blade, then narrow blade to slice off the 1/8" depth of the 3/4" lip resting on the bamboo. All of the techniques fluctuate depending on what's occurring as you work, I will adjust accordingly continuously filing through options or creating new ones. Just safely!

    Cost of bit would be thrown in due to one time use!
  5. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    If I couldn't replace the whole plank I think I would leave that nice little cover on there.
  6. Completefloors

    Completefloors Pro Member

    A mini pneumatic disc sander that auto mechanics use should be easy enough to handle in that tight space. That would probably be the route i would take. Im sure there are easier and more efficient ways though.

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  7. Blue

    Blue Pro Member

    try a 4 inch circular saw blade on an angle grinder.
  8. I'm not entirely sure I can drill straight down otherwise I thought hole saw would be a good option providing you can match up correctly.

    Adjustable circle cutter might be the best of both worlds. I thought about just gluing in a wood support so I have a center point for the drill to go. I'm not entirely sure how clean these cut but id imagine it should be okay. If there is some scrap laying around I will try on a test piece.

    Attached Files:

  9. I like the idea and it would be able to fit in tight quarters. Are you saying to find a matching disc and just sand to the proper depth? Setting up compressor/hose and with solid bamboo I'm not sure this will be much improvement compared to hammer gouge chisel. I think it would do a nice job and if I had one in my arsenal I think I would give it a whirl just to see.

    Attached Files:

  10. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    I don't think the adjustable cutter would work as well as the hole saw with plenty of teeth and the stability of resting the blade around circumference of cut. The adjustable is a little harder to control but is good for soft wall tile. I'm not a fan of those, bought a few specific diamond bits for plumbing fixtures.

    My friend does auto body, they have some cool tools like the small disc sander and also the little belt sander, he grinded down some metal inside a vacuum attachment pipe for me.

    For the bamboo I would cut deeper than the actual thickness, it's easier to build up with non permanent caulk than to chisel lower.

    I did look for a hole saw blade for standard size floor electrical outlets. Usually set in concrete, not level, and the finishers always trowel the cement high, so grinding is a given. But haven't found the right size.
  11. Tony Beam

    Tony Beam Pro Member

    How about a roto-zip

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