Best method for sealing floating floor against bathtub and toilet?

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by kjac1985, Feb 21, 2017.

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  1. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    Over at The Home Depot I found a comment that suggests using quarter round with a silicone adhesive to the floating LVT planks and then silicone at both edge of the quarter round, as seen below:


    I've seen some suggest that just using silicone where the floating floor meets the tub is sufficient, but this person says that a floating floor system "requires trim to hold it in place". Is this true?

    A related question, will using silicone caulk around the perimeter of the toilet base prevent water from creeping under it or will the seasonal movement of the floating floor break the water tight bond of the caulk to the planks rendering it useless?
  2. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I hate 1/4 round at the tub. Cheap apartments have tub strips that look better. What brand and type of flooring? Bathroom only? Or are you connecting on to other rooms or a hallway? Not all floors are created equal. While you may or may not be able to butt the tub for a clean look we can certainly get rid of the 1/4 round.
  3. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    This is a link to the exact flooring I bought.

    It's Shaw RESILIENT Floorte 6" x 48" planks.
  4. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member Senior Member

    I caulk around the toilet flange and around all edges of the flooring to the wall. Base or quarter round would cover it.
  5. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

  6. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Floorte ain't too bad, I've put it in my bathroom and I scribed the tub and caulked it with translucent. No 1/4 round. No nuthin. My bathroom is maybe 5'x8' and no direct sunlight so I don't have to worry too much about expansion. When I installed it, I put a bead of silicone between the tub and planks as well as caulked the top when done. Gotta have a good seal.

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  7. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    My planks will be running perpendicular to the tub, not parallel like yours, if that makes a difference.

    What did you do about stopping water from getting under the toilet and baseboards?
  8. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Direction doesn't matter. Wax ring for the toilet and caulk the base of the toilet. Call a plumber if you want a guarantee. You can either caulk between the floor and wall or you can caulk the base of your base. I didn't caulk anything but the tub in my bathroom. I don't have kids at home either. I don't caulk the perimeter of anything any more. In my mind that locks in your floating floor. You're already cheating by butting the tub so don't push it.
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  9. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    luckily for you it will make it easier to install in that direction. Start your rows against the tub and work out from there.
  10. LELady

    LELady New Member

    This looks wonderful! I'm about to try my hand at laying NuCore cork backed vinyl planks in my bathroom. My planks will also run parallel to the tub. I just couldn't stand the thought of 1/4 round along the tub, and love this idea. I wanted to verify that this is all silicone caulk; not a silicone adhesive anywhere.
  11. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain TFP Owner/Founder Administrator

    Silicone caulk IS an adhesive - has adhesive properties.

    100% Silicone is:
    • Waterproof—non-silicones can break down in water over time.
    • Flexible—non-silicones can become less flexible and can even freeze at low temperatures, making them more likely to crack.
    • Shrink-proof—non-silicones can shrink as the caulk dries, which can cause cracks over time.
    • Crack-proof—non-silicones can harden, crack and crumble over time when exposed to extreme heat and the sun's UV rays.
    Some installers use acrylic or latex caulking, which I think is good for those areas that will be painted or won't be exposed to the stresses of expansion & contraction. But pure silicone is better. It's also harder to apply properly.

    GE Kitchen And Bath Silicone II Caulk - -
  12. calitina

    calitina New Member

    Your install looks great. How did you get the plank along the tub to click in on the long side? I have a similar installation, but can't get a pull bar between the tub and the plank unless I have a larger gap between the tub and the plank.
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  13. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I started at the tub and installed away from it. Are you installing Floorte? That product is a drop n lock and you shouldn’t need a pull bar to lock in the long joint. If that is not an option, you may be able to shift the floor far enough away from the tub (using the expansion space that is on the other side), install your problem piece and then shift the floor back in place.
  14. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Here’s a bathroom I just did for the in-laws. I cut the tongue off the planks and butted them to the tub and that was my starting point. If the tub was bowed or crooked, I would have scribed them to fit. I was able to butt the planks to the existing hardwood and seal with a bead of silicone as well as using silicone around the toilet flange. The bathroom is small enough and gets no direct sunlight so I felt comfortable enough butting the tub and hardwood. Everywhere else has plenty of expansion space.

    43AC3F89-58D4-4D12-ACE4-17C50BCA62D9.jpeg 91FFCF6D-1A5C-45BE-861F-948CEB16CCB7.jpeg 8B751B1B-620B-4F95-AB2E-2D1D004B8011.jpeg
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  15. Nice, I still seal the bolt holes.
  16. Even if it buckles or spontaneously combusts, it's just the in laws ;).

    I do the same in small areas. Looks a lot cleaner
  17. Barry Carlton

    Barry Carlton I Support TFP Senior Member Published

    Same here
  18. Incognito

    Incognito No more Mr. Nice Guy! I Support TFP Senior Member

    In SMALL areas for flooring that call out for expansion gaps one can "cheat" easily by scribe fitting to one/two sides so long as adequate gaps exist on at least two (opposite) sides. Common sense says the floor JUST needs a place to expand into. On an 8'x8' or smaller space I wouldn't sweat making sure ALL 4 walls are allowed the manufacturer's minimum allowed gap. Likewise with cutting to cleanouts, floor sinks electrical boxes.........I would cut VERY close and use clear silicone to fill that slight gap where expansion gaps will absorb any movement otherwise out and away.
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