Best method for sealing floating floor against bathtub and toilet?

Discussion in 'Vinyl Flooring Q&A' started by kjac1985, Feb 21, 2017.

  1. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    Over at the Home Depot forums I found a comment that suggests using quarter round with a silicone adhesive to the floating LVT planks and then silicone at both edge of the quarter round, as seen below:


    I've seen some suggest that just using silicone where the floating floor meets the tub is sufficient, but this person says that a floating floor system "requires trim to hold it in place". Is this true?

    A related question, will using silicone caulk around the perimeter of the toilet base prevent water from creeping under it or will the seasonal movement of the floating floor break the water tight bond of the caulk to the planks rendering it useless?
  2. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    I hate 1/4 round at the tub. Cheap apartments have tub strips that look better. What brand and type of flooring? Bathroom only? Or are you connecting on to other rooms or a hallway? Not all floors are created equal. While you may or may not be able to butt the tub for a clean look we can certainly get rid of the 1/4 round.
  3. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    This is a link to the exact flooring I bought.

    It's Shaw RESILIENT Floorte 6" x 48" planks.
  4. kwfloors

    kwfloors Fuzz on the brain Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I caulk around the toilet flange and around all edges of the flooring to the wall. Base or quarter round would cover it.
  5. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    I can't post links yet, but the flooring is Shaw RESILIENT Floorte 6" x 48" planks.

    The bathroom and kitchen are getting the same flooring, however they are not connected.
  6. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Floorte ain't too bad, I've put it in my bathroom and I scribed the tub and caulked it with translucent. No 1/4 round. No nuthin. My bathroom is maybe 5'x8' and no direct sunlight so I don't have to worry too much about expansion. When I installed it, I put a bead of silicone between the tub and planks as well as caulked the top when done. Gotta have a good seal.

    Attached Files:

    • 008.jpg
      File size:
      175.2 KB
  7. kjac1985

    kjac1985 New Member

    My planks will be running perpendicular to the tub, not parallel like yours, if that makes a difference.

    What did you do about stopping water from getting under the toilet and baseboards?
  8. Chris 45

    Chris 45 Director of P.R. on some deserted island. I Support TFP

    Direction doesn't matter. Wax ring for the toilet and caulk the base of the toilet. Call a plumber if you want a guarantee. You can either caulk between the floor and wall or you can caulk the base of your base. I didn't caulk anything but the tub in my bathroom. I don't have kids at home either. I don't caulk the perimeter of anything any more. In my mind that locks in your floating floor. You're already cheating by butting the tub so don't push it.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor Senior Member

    luckily for you it will make it easier to install in that direction. Start your rows against the tub and work out from there.
  10. LELady

    LELady New Member

    This looks wonderful! I'm about to try my hand at laying NuCore cork backed vinyl planks in my bathroom. My planks will also run parallel to the tub. I just couldn't stand the thought of 1/4 round along the tub, and love this idea. I wanted to verify that this is all silicone caulk; not a silicone adhesive anywhere.
  11. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Silicone caulk IS an adhesive - has adhesive properties.

    100% Silicone is:
    • Waterproof—non-silicones can break down in water over time.
    • Flexible—non-silicones can become less flexible and can even freeze at low temperatures, making them more likely to crack.
    • Shrink-proof—non-silicones can shrink as the caulk dries, which can cause cracks over time.
    • Crack-proof—non-silicones can harden, crack and crumble over time when exposed to extreme heat and the sun's UV rays.
    Some installers use acrylic or latex caulking, which I think is good for those areas that will be painted or won't be exposed to the stresses of expansion & contraction. But pure silicone is better. It's also harder to apply properly.

    GE Kitchen And Bath Silicone II Caulk - -

Share This Page