Bellawood Matte-Walnut versus local manufacturer

Discussion in 'Hardwood and Laminates Q&A' started by brnhornt, Mar 31, 2015.

  1. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Hi there folks. New to the forum, and my apologies if this question has been answered time and time again...feel like it might have been. My question is about the quality of Bellawood flooring. I'm about to start a 600 sqft project, and my wife really likes the look of wide-plank Walnut. I a woodworker, walnut is just about my favorite wood to work with. Sheoga Flooring is relatively close to me, but I am looking at around a $2.00 sqft difference in price between them and Bellawood. When I ask the guys at Sheoga why so much...their response is always "Bellawood can't come close to our quality." When I ask for further detail about that....they can't seem to come up with any real specifics. That's what brought be to this forum today...can anyone speak to the quality difference between Bellawood and any other custom flooring manufacturer? it really worth spending an extra 2 dollars a square foot for the Sheoga?

  2. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    Kevin, Bellawood is a trade name for Lumber Liquidators, ask yourself what liquidators means? The dictionary says someone who buys leftover junk and resells it!! Is this the kind of company you want to do business with, just to save a coupla bucks?

    Sheoga is a local American company with a reputation for quality.

    To me it is a no-brainer!
  3. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    What about Bob? They seem to have tamed down their commercials. Will they be around in 5 years?
  4. Mike Antonetti

    Mike Antonetti I Support TFP Senior Member

    There's all sorts of ways to cheat. American made means a lot to me, I don't know about others. There are also standards that Chinese do not have, etc. Etc.
  5. kylenelson

    kylenelson You'll find me on the floor I Support TFP Senior Member

    There's always a price to pay for cheap. Spend the extra $2, and don't think of it as extra. It's really just the price it costs to not go cheap and flip a coin on if your investment is going to
    Hold up
  6. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Thanks for the replies...sounds like it's pretty much a no-brainer to go with Sheoga.

    Next quick question...I would like to run my flooring in parallel with the joists and know that I need at least an inch of subfloor. Looking up from my basement, I see OSB that's labeled with looks like 23/52"'s hard to read because none of the stamps are clear. Does that seem right? That's not even half of an there a correct way for measuring the actual thickness? My thought was to drill a hole and then use a wire or something else to mark it.

    Thanks again!
  7. Daris Mulkin

    Daris Mulkin The One and Only Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    If you have floor registers you can take one of them out and measure alongside of the duct work.


  8. Elmer Fudd

    Elmer Fudd Administwative Asst. Charter Member I Support TFP Senior Member

    I would bet that is 23/32, which is standard OSB used for decking in your area. Hardwood flooring is commonly installed right over that.
  9. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Thanks! But if I'm going to install the floor (4 or 5" plank, 3/4" walnut) parallel to my joists....I'll need to add a layer of 1/4" subfloor won't I?

    Doh...great idea...never even thought of that :)
  10. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Quarter-inch is not enough only because it's quarter-inch, which is pretty flimsy panels. 3/8" will work though - a bit stiffer. Half-inch would be better.

  11. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Hmmmm....I'm going to have to rethink this....since the hardwood is 3/4" thick...that would mean I would be raising the entire floor 1.25".... :O
  12. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Add a block between every joist 24" OC. That's a tough job, but means you wouldn't have to add a layer of plywood.
  13. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Thanks Jim...I poked my head around the area I would like to floor and I just don't have the option of raising it 1.25 inches. There are three distinct areas. Dining - currently carpet. Foyer - currently ceramic tile. Den - currently carpet. All three surfaces are in plane with each other. The idea is to install the walnut floor in the Dining room and Foyer but leave the carpet in the Den (it's relatively new and in good shape) I might be able to raise the floor 1/2 inch everywhere else, but I run into problems with the main entry door in the foyer. There's just not enough clearance. Can you describe the blocking process you mentioned? It might be work, but if it allows me to get the walnut floor layed without raising the floor I would definitely consider it.
  14. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Below is an example of joist blocking. It's a little sloppy, but acceptable. I recommend at least 2x8 blocking. Even if your joists are larger, 2x8 will be just fine. Some builders suggest blocking be aligned rather than staggered, like in the picture. In your case though, either should work for what you are doing. It will add the strength you need to allow you to install hardwood parallel to the joists.


    Attached Files:

  15. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Thanks again Jim...assume those are just nailed...not screwed? the whole gang...would an engineered product require blocking or additional subfloor? I'm only leaning on using 3/4" hardwood because of an admittedly snobby view of engineered flooring versus full/solid hardwood. I do like the fact that solid wood can be sanded/refinished many many times over it's life, but is this a case where I should consider "getting over myself" and take a hard look at an engineered walnut floor?
  16. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    I prefer screws because it's just too difficult to swing a hammer in those areas.

    Engineered hardwood isn't as stiff as solid, so I would think its flexibility could cause the subfloor to flex even more between the joists. Flexing can cause damage to the attachment mechanism, gaps between boards, squeaks and other problems. But reducing the thickness of the finished flooring might allow you to use plywood underlayment instead of joist blocking. Your decision.

  17. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Thanks again Jim. Looks like I am going to go the joist-blocking route and then installing the 3/4 walnut to the existing subfloor.

    One other question...when installing the blocking...should I attach it to the subfloor in some way? Either with adhesive from below....or screws from above? In my head it would make sense that I would want the whole floor to be connected/mated...
  18. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    I don't know there is an actual rule about this. If it were me, I would install the blocking inline (not staggered) exactly 24" OC so that I could mark the first run with a wire at each end poked through the subfloor. On the top side, I could then snap a chalk line to mark off the center point of each blocking run as a guide for driving screws.

    When installing the blocking, I would toe-nail each one in place where it meets the previous block, but end nail (I'd use all screws, not actual nails) the end that has no adjacent block in place yet. I would not use glue, but I would make sure the blocking was positioned level with the top of the joists.

    One last bit of advice: cut the blocks snug to the joists - no slop.

  19. brnhornt

    brnhornt Member

    Sooo...after doing some more digging in the basement, I don't have the option to do any kind of blocking. There are a few rows of bracing, but there are too many air ducts and plumbing for me to be able to stiffen the subfloor with blocking...I'm back at being forced into two options:

    1 - raise the floor and run the walnut parallel to the joists
    2 - leave the OSB and run the walnut perpendicular to the joists
    3 - pick a different finish floor material.

    2 and 3 aren't really a good if I go with option 1...I will most likely run into a problem with the entry door. Metal door with two side-lights. Is there anything I can do with that other than plan on ordering a new door with the new/shorter measurements due to the finished floor being so much higher?
  20. Bud Cline

    Bud Cline Tile Expert Charter Member Senior Member Published

    Raise the door maybe?:confused:

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