AquaGuard quality? New poster flooring project.

Discussion in 'Hardwood and Laminates Q&A' started by glider90, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. glider90

    glider90 Member

    Well room one is done except for a few last pieces and the transitions. The Eco Quiet underlayment was really nice to work with. It is more of a rubber product than foam, and went down better than the foam floor muffler type I used n the past.

    The Aquagard is different. I destroyed four planks before I made a single row. The first row with this stuff is brutal. The short edge is not a cam style interlock, it is a snap down vertical facing tongue and groove. ANY side loading on the edge of the board will rip the tongue right off. I tried to slide my single row of four boards into place against the wall and the side load was enough to fail all the joints. Grrr. I was very frustrated as a a few more issues arose. Once I got the second row down and things solidified though, I found this flooring very nice.

    To install you cam in the long edge and slide up tight to previous board. Then if needed tap the long edge tight using a long edge cut from a scrap board. This will bring the board down flat except for the short edge where the tongue and groove is holding it up slightly. I then used the same scrap bridged from the new board to the previous to tap (hammer) the short edge down and ensure that the joints are tight and flush.

    The key things I learned on this is that since the short edge is not cammed it might pop up a little after you hammer it down. As long is it easily goes back down to flush the next row will bring it down and tight, so do not sweat it. Also once a short edge is engaged, you will destroy the tongue or groove if you try to lift it back up.

    A few boards were bowed along the long edge, showing either a gap in the middle or at each end. It is important to notice this is a bad board and not attempt to force it. I also had to inspect all the edges. I found several with bad joints that needed either cleaned out or avoided.

    All that said I like this stuff. Not having to angle in the short edge and raise the upstream piece to get it to interlock made it easier to install once you get the hang of it. I did not damage a single piece once the second row was on. If it holds up as they claim, I will be a happy camper.

    I used a 40 tooth blade in my table saw for 99% of the cuts and did 300 square feet with no issues on blade wear. Small notch cuts were done with a jigsaw and went easily.

    My new question, I have a 28" and a 120" transition from vinyl to this new floor. In the past I used a T strip. The Aquagard is between 3/16" and 1/4" higher than the vinyl. What is my best option?

    Attached Files:

  2. glider90

    glider90 Member

    Well phase one is all done, I guess I will post the result in case anyone else comes along and wants some information on this type of flooring.
    I am not sure what the best practice is on the transitions, but I wanted something to hold the vinyl down, cover the expansion gap on the laminate, and keep a low profile.

    There is a difference of about 3/16" in height, but I did not want the bulk of a reducer. Luckily I found some close color match T-mouldings at Floor and Decor on clearance for $2.50 per 8 foot length! I bought several to play with at that price.

    The moulding is wide enough and the transition shallow enough that I was bale to angle it and it looks fine. I pre-drilled holes in the moulding and used some ribbed wall board nails to hold it in place. Worked out well in my opinion.

    I also want to add a note of happiness with Floor and Decor. They exchanged five defective planks no questions asked, no hassles. They also took care of me on some register confusion with the clearanced T-strips. A very good overall experience.

    Attached Files:

  3. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

    Looks nice, but I have a couple concerns with that T-molding. It doesn't overhang the laminate enough, so if it moves a little, the trim will drop off the edge. Second, the T-mold isn't strong enough to withstand the downward forces of traffic and may soon break along the laminate side.

    The bottom of the T is meant to fit into a track and be level, exerting very little, if any, pressure on the surface of the T. You can mitigate this by cutting some scrap wood that is flat on the bottom and beveled on the top so it makes contact with the bottom of the T. This would be a very tiny strip of wood, so you should glue it instead of nailing it, to avoid splitting. Then you can glue the T-molding to the tiny strip of wood, using weight to hold it down until dry, thus avoiding the unsightliness of nails through the top.

    If all your trim is already down, you might consider buying extra trim and setting it aside until you need to fix what you have down. You probably will at some future date not too far off.
  4. glider90

    glider90 Member

    Thanks Jim. I did move the T-mold to be about 3/16" over the laminate when I fastened it down just in case it moves or the floor contracts. This was a setup photo I did to get a better look at the section view. After looking at this photo I also added a strip of 30# felt paper under the T-mold so it is (hopefully) for the most part supported on the bottom of the T and not being supported on the horizontal lip at the laminate. Good points you make for sure. I did buy enough to do it again or repair since it was only $2.50!
    If I have issues I will cut a tapered wood bottom strip and glue it. What glue would you suggest? Construction adhesive/liquid nails?
  5. Jim McClain

    Jim McClain Owner/Founder Administrator

  6. chaos129

    chaos129 Pro Member

    I have used aqua guard in about 4 houses now and i can say it has been great.the guy who said that about the big rolls is right it is a lot easier to use the small rolls.if he will discount it i would get them.if not there are ways around it like rolling out the run you need cutting it in a bigger room then laying it is just bulkier then the small thing is that like some laminate flooring you cant take this stuff apart once locked the locks will break.The doorways if you can have a seem there undercut the jamb and the doorways are not that bad.i have seen jobs that people try to cut out the shape of the jamb and it never looks professional.a multi tool is great for this too.i think you will be very happy with the flooring oh one more thing make sure to look at each plank i have got some with very messed up patterns or what looked like they ran out of ink or smeared it or something . they was bvery good at exchanging them for new ones just mix your boxes and it will look great
  7. DanInSunnyFL

    DanInSunnyFL New Member

    Hi folks,

    We're buying a home and replacing almost all of the ugly flooring and we would prefer flooring that "flows" from room to room. We really like the Aquaguard. I was amazed how hard it was to scratch it with a key compared to anything else.

    But, I am having trouble finding reviews. I was wondering if there were any other thoughts on the Aquaguard. Because we have to do it all at once and it's 4,000 sqft we don't want to make a bad decision.


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